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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Mňouk
Through the center of the south face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Mňouk
Via the upland edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Deštivá (Lesní) deska
Through the center of the valley's north face via 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mňouk
In the north face (from the chimney) via the face to the right to a ledge, from there… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Deštivá (Lesní) deska
On the right in the upland face, via a recess to a balcony, along a sloping ledge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Deštivá (Lesní) deska
Via the west face ('clock'), higher up via a rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Deštivá (Lesní) deska
In the middle of the upland face, directly via bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Baba (Hádavá hlava)
From the valley, via a wide chimney to a platform (also accessible from the upland side),… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Baba (Hádavá hlava)
From the upland side, to the left across an overhang to the pillar of the Northwest Route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Deštivá (Lesní) deska
In the right part of the valley face, via a chimney and the face via bolts. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Baba (Hádavá hlava)
From the starting chimney of the valley route, via the face along the left valley edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Baba (Hádavá hlava)
Traverse in the southeast face to the left to the edge and via a valley route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Baba (Hádavá hlava)
On the right in the southeast face to a balcony, then via the face near the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Kočičí kostel
On chiseled steps easily to the balcony to large pitons under the northern overhanging… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Kočičí kostel
From the 1st ring up the wall (bolt) directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kočičí kostel
Crack in the SE wall to the balcony, wall (ring) and crack, higher up the crack of the … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Kočičí kostel
From the 2nd R of the Polední cesta (Noon Route) diagonally left by ladder and wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Kočičí kostel
Start like "Přímá cesta" (Direct Route) to the footbridge and left crack to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kočičí kostel
Left in the upland (SW) wall diagonally right over the niche to the 1st ring and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Kouřová stěna
From the E terrace diagonally right up the wall and over the overhang to the BH. Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kouřová stěna
Left of the central massif. NE edge over 3x pitons to the abseiling BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Kouřová stěna
In the right part of the S wall, over the overhang and up the wall to the BH, then piton… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kočičí kostel
From the upland wall left by the footbridge into the valley wall and on artificial steps… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lesní hlavička
Right part of the E side through holes, rolling over the sloping weathered edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lesní hlavička
On the right upland edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lesní hlavička
From S directly over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lesní hlavička
From the E edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lesní hlavička
Sloping crack in the E wall and to the left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lesní hlavička
Below the abseil directly over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Baldurova jehla
Left of the Hnízdo route, up the wall to the pitons, from there to the small balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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