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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Adamova věž
From the center of the S face to the ring, upwards and diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Adamova věž
Via the rounded, overhanging edge to the small chimney and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zapomenutý pes
From the center of the S face along the rungs to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Zapomenutý pes
Upland edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Adamova věž
Smooth edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Zapomenutý pes
From the boulder, overhang to the large hourglasses and then up the wall to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
4+
Adamova věž
Through the center of the south face, over the rounded bulge and directly up the face to… Rock Climbing
2+
Adamova věž
From the west, along the edge of the small pillar, then up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Adamova věž
About 2 m to the left of the "Old Route", up the small face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Soví hnízdo
Via the high (south) face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Adamova věž
Via the rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Soví hnízdo
Via the edge to the pre-summit and then via the "Forest Route" to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Soví hnízdo
From the valley side, via gully and chimney, then diagonally left across the face and… Rock Climbing
3
Soví hnízdo
Far right in the valley (south) face, via the chimney between the tower and the massif to… Rock Climbing
3
Soví hnízdo
From the southeast to the pre-summit and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Soví hnízdo
From the chimney between the tower and the northeast massif, via a corner and face to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Soví hnízdo
m to the right of the Náhorní cesta, up the face to a block and directly up the face to… Rock Climbing
4-
Soví hnízdo
To the right of the "Forest Route" to the edge and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Soví hnízdo
From the northwest, via the gully to the pre-summit and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Soví hnízdo
On the left of the high face, up the face and gully to the platform and then via the "Old… Rock Climbing
2
Soví hnízdo
From the southwest pre-summit, over the overhang and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Soví hnízdo
Between the southwest pre-summit and the tower, using a stemming technique, then continue… Rock Climbing
4-
Soví hnízdo
On the left of the west edge, up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kostelní věž
To the ledge in the West face and traverse left to its end. Diagonally left up the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Kostelní věž
Left of the SW edge by the corner, higher traverse left into the shallow gully and via … Rock Climbing
4+
Kostelní věž
Left in the SE face to the platform and traverse right to the balcony. Diagonally left up… Rock Climbing
4+
Kostelní věž
Traverse left into the shallow gully and via route a) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Poštolčí kužel
By the upland edge under the overhang, traverse left along the ledge and diagonally right… Rock Climbing
5+
Poštolčí kužel
Traverse left in the SE face to the corner, up it and over the overhang on the left to… Rock Climbing
4-
Poštolčí kužel
From the massif, by an overhang and a stance to the summit. Rock Climbing

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