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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Šarchán
In the center of the valley wall, up the wall to a slanting crack and along it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Šarchán
From the east, up the chimney between the tower and the massif to a boulder. Chimneying… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Šarchán
Up the inner chimney to the ledge and chimneying to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šarchán
From the massif, descend into a narrow chimney and then follow the Eastern Chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Šarchán
In the chimney to the balcony, traverse right to the balcony and along it to the valley… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Šarchán
Up the corner crack along the NE edge to the balcony and up the narrow chimney to another… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Šarchán
From the west into a wide chimney, through a crack in the massif to a niche and then up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Šarchán
From the massif, descend diagonally through the hollow for about 2 m and jump to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Šarchán
From the massif, jump n. v. (without descent) Rock Climbing
6-
Šarchán
Like Breath of the Jungle to the balcony in the valley wall. After the balcony, traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Šarchán
From the massif, descend via chimney to the ledge in the chimney between the tower and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hacienda
Right into the "Chorale" route, up the steps and the narrowing chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hacienda
Like the "City Noise" route, climb the crack to its end and left over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Hacienda
Up the wide chimney between Hacienda and Ant Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hacienda
In the NW face, climb the crack under the overhang, in the overhang traverse (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hacienda
To the left of the "Fiesta" route, climb the wall (ring) to the 2nd ring. From there,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hacienda
On the North face, right of the "Valley Route" to the ledge and right to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hacienda
Up the valley chimney for about 10 m. Right under the overhang to the ring. Long traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Hacienda
In the middle of the South face, climb over a ring to the 2nd ring, traverse left, and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hacienda
To the right of the "Domino" route, climb the crack over the overhang to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hacienda
Up the blunt West edge, or the right crack to the ledge (hourglass), traverse left and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mravenčí stěna
Right of route 'Mravenčí stěna' (Ant Wall), up the double crack to the balcony and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hacienda
Like route 'JV sokolík' (SE Corner), up the corner 6 m and traverse left to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Mravenčí stěna
Follow the route 'CESTA KAMARÁDSTVÍ' (Friendship Route) to the 1st ring. Then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Mravenčí stěna
Crack over the 1st ring to the balcony and diagonally left up the crack to the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hacienda
From the SE with an overhanging chimney, higher up via chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Mravenčí stěna
In the left part of the Downhill wall over the bolt into the fissure and follow that,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Hacienda
In the right part of the Southeast wall, up the corner, higher up the wide crack to the… Rock Climbing
6
Hraběnka
On the left in the West wall, crack to the ring, then up the wall to the 2nd ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Hraběnka
Up the narrow Downhill wall over 4 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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