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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Malé žluté cimbuří
In the line of the gully, climb the wall directly to the platform at the end of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Malé žluté cimbuří
Directly to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Malé žluté cimbuří
Climb the right part of the West face (ring), then higher via the Southwest edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Malé žluté cimbuří
In the right part of the North face, climb the small corner to the ring and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Malé žluté cimbuří
Climb the center of the downhill face via 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Malé žluté cimbuří
Climb the West face past the ring and hourglasses directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velké žluté cimbuří
Climb the crack to the left of the Northern route and the wall to the platform, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Velké žluté cimbuří
To the left on the North face (2 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Velké žluté cimbuří
From the balcony on the East edge, traverse to the right to the crack of the Northern… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malé žluté cimbuří
To the left on the South face, climb the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velké žluté cimbuří
Climb the chimney and crack in the center of the North face to the ledge, cross to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velké žluté cimbuří
Climb the edge to the ledge and the wall (left of the Velká cestovní loupež route), past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velké žluté cimbuří
Up the center of the West wall over 2 rings directly to the 3rd ring of the Jiřikova… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Velké žluté cimbuří
Like the "Velveťácká cesta" to the start of the crack. Right on the ledge to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velké žluté cimbuří
To the left of the Velveťácká route, climb the wall to the 1st ring, traverse to the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Velké žluté cimbuří
From the 2nd ring directly up the wall and edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Velké žluté cimbuří
Up the SW edge to the 'clocks' and right to the 1st ring. Up the wall slightly right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velké žluté cimbuří
Right of the "Velveťácká cesta" (Velvet way) route, over 2 rings to the chimney, up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Velké žluté cimbuří
From the West foresummit, left of the "Old Route", traverse left into the niche, up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Velké žluté cimbuří
On the right side of the South wall, up the edge over the ring to the ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hezoun
Left of the "Žižalova cesta" (at the tourist marker) over the overhang and the prominent… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hezoun
Up the center of the overhanging SE wall (below the rappel point) directly. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Hezoun
Up the overhanging NE edge directly over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Lucinka
Briefly follow the "NE chimney" route and then right onto the wall via the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing
5
Lucinka
From the gorge traverse left into the crack and up that to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Lucinka
Up the center of the South wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Lucinka
In the right part of the lower wall, go past the 1st and 2nd bolt hangers (BH), from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Lucinka
Ascend the NE chimney to the upper scree slope and then freely up. Rock Climbing
6
Lucinka
Up the west face directly to the ring and diagonally to the right into the Western Crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Akademická věž
To the left in the south face through a corner, higher up a crack (loops) to the saddle… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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