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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Kamzičí kužel
To the left of the double crack, follow the NE edge to the balcony and then the Stará… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kamzičí hrad
Up the North wall, traverse in the ledge to the left beyond the NE edge to the double… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kamzičí hrad
On the left in the North wall, up the wall (added bolt) and crack over the 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kamzičí hrad
Following the route Samy Bobky, under the mouth of the crack traverse left and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kamzičí hrad
To the right of the start of the route Green Ice, up the wall and narrow chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kamzičí hrad
To the left of the chimney, up the wall and over the overhanging rib to the right into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kamzičí hrad
On the right in the North wall, up the crack and wall to the bolt, then further right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kamzičí hrad
Up the narrow chimney in the center of the North wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kamzičí hrad
To the left of the Northern Crack, up the wall (slings) and corner to the overgrown ledge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kamzičí hrad
Start about 3m to the right of the route "Chamois Jump". With a long jump to the next… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Oxford
Up the left crack in the North wall, over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kamzičí hrad
Traverse under the overhang to the overhanging crack (to the right of the chimney). Up it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kamzičí hrad
From the base of the South wall, left up the crack over a bolt to the ledge. "Chamois… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kamzičí hrad
Like the Old Route, traverse to the diagonal wall, up the wall to the ledge in the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Kamzičí hrad
Jump from the foreground rock to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Buckingham
Up the center of the NW wall, over a bolt to the 2nd bolt. Diagonally left over the 3rd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Buckingham
Diagonal (SW) crack, over a bolt into the chimney, then up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Buckingham
Start to the right of the route "Sweaty Whale", up the wall to the bolt. Directly, then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Oxford
To the right of the route "White Devil", up the wall and crack over 2 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Oxford
In the right part of the North wall, to the right of the route "Golden Middle Way", up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Waterloo
Up the center of the West wall via the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Waterloo
2m to the left of the crack, up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Buckingham
Up the crack in the center of the South wall, over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Waterloo
To the right of route c. Spring warm-up, up the wall (bolt) over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Peřiňák
From the gully on the East side, up the chimney with an overhanging start between the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Waterloo
On the left in the South wall, over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Peřiňák
From the W corner and chimney (3x hourglasses) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Peřiňák
On the right in the N wall over 4 rings directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Peřiňák
On the right in the North wall, via the pillar wall, over 4 bolts directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Peřiňák
In the left part of the valley wall along the edge to 1st ring. Up the wall directly into… Rock Climbing

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