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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Sedm piv
On the right in the NW face, through a diagonal notch into a crack and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Sedm piv
To the left of the W start of the Old Route, through a narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Sedm piv
Briefly up the chimney, higher up to the left along a rib to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Sedm piv
Through the wall to the left to the edge and along it past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sedm piv
Through the wall near the W edge, past 2 slings to the summit of the SE block. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Napoleon
In the left part of the upper wall, through a notch (ring) and then the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2
Sedm piv
From the E or W, through the chimney between the blocks upwards and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Tři bratři (Divoký císař)
In the center of the W face, through the wall and a crack with an overhanging start to… Rock Climbing
6
Napoleon
On the right in the upper wall, through the wall past a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Napoleon
On the SE face, diagonally right to a ring (stance) and then the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Tři bratři (Divoký císař)
From the center of the SW face, the SE pre-summit, diagonally right through the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Tři bratři (Divoký císař)
On the right in the W face, through the wall past 2 rings, higher up through a shallow… Rock Climbing
2+
Tři bratři (Divoký císař)
From the massif, descend through the middle of the wall, traverse and then climb the wall… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Tři bratři (Divoký císař)
Through the center of the overhanging wall, past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Tři bratři (Divoký císař)
From the SE, through the chimney between the summit and the pre-summit to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tři bratři (Divoký císař)
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the NE pre-summit. Via Trojskok… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Pivař
From the pillar in the massif, descend and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Tři bratři (Divoký císař)
From the SE pre-summit into the chimney, then up through the friable chimney into the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tři bratři (Divoký císař)
From the massif, step (or jump) to the southeast pre-summit, from there step (or jump)… Rock Climbing
4-
Tři bratři (Divoký císař)
From the southeast pre-summit, a drop and up the face over the abseil ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Pivař
Chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Pavoučí hrad
To the left at the valley edge, up the face over 2 bolts and the middle of the face … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Tokáňská skříň
From the east edge diagonally right, higher up directly onto the friction slab up the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Tokáňská skříň
In the right part of the west face, over ledges directly to BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Pavoučí hrad
To the left of the Black Widow route, crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Tokáňská skříň
Directly over the overhang to the balcony and Mossy Gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Tokáňská skříň
Along the left upper edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Pavoučí hrad
To the right at the valley edge, up the white face over 4 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Tokáňská skříň
From the northeast to the balcony and crack to the ring. Gully and face on the right to… Rock Climbing
4-
Medvědí kámen
To the right of the Old Route, crack to the balcony and Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing

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