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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Spící ještěr
On the left, up the west face diagonally to the right between the summit heads and to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Spící ještěr
In the V wall, climb the diagonal crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Rudolf
2 m from the Eastern Crack, up the wall to the large balcony and like the Beautiful Edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Rudolf
To the left of the southeast corner, follow the short crack and edge to the large balcony… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rudolf
In the middle of the east face, follow the crack to the large balcony and to the right up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Rudolf
In the middle of the south face, follow the crack to the right to the large balcony and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Rudolf
On the left in the south face, follow the crack to the large balcony and like the Old… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Rudolf
To the right of the southwest edge, up the wall to the large balcony and directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rudolf
3 m from the northwest edge, straight up the wall into the chimney and up it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rudolf
Start 3 m to the right of the "Northern Cracks" route, diagonally left up the wall,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rudolf
On the left in the west face, follow the ferrous wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Rudolf
In the right part of the northeast face, directly to the balcony and through the crack to… Rock Climbing
3
Rudolf
In the middle of the north face, follow the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Rudolf
Over the overhang on the north edge, to the right to the balcony to the BH and directly… Rock Climbing
3
Rudolf
To the left of the Old Route, follow the crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rudolfův kámen
At the left edge, follow the crack, over the overhang to the iron holds. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Rudolf
In the upland (west) face, traverse to the large balcony and on the left up the south… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Rudolfův kámen
At the level of the right edge, follow the crack to the birch tree. On iron holds to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rudolfův kámen
Through the center of the wall over the overhang to the ring and along the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Rudolfova skříň
From the "Rudolf's Stone" massif, a descent to the summit Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kámen mudrců
About 2.5m to the left of the Old Route, straight up the wall, later like the Old Route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rudolfova skříň
From the right along the southeast edge to the ring and further along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kámen mudrců
Behind the edge of the west face to the right to the birch tree and directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rudolfova skříň
Start along the southwest edge and under the overhangs, slightly to the left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kámen mudrců
From the right diagonally to the balcony in the south face, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Společná věž
Up the S face into the recess, build a stack of rocks to reach the ledge and then along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Společná věž
From the saddle, traverse right along the ledge to the middle of the S face and then up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Společná věž
Diagonally left up the uphill face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kámen mudrců
From the saddle through the chimney, higher up along the protruding edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Společná věž
From the wall to the ring and up the small corner to the ledge, then along the 'Old Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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