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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Dolní věž
In the N wall (by positioning) and up the overhanging crack to the NW edge and along that… Rock Climbing
3
Dolní věž
In the E wall along the cracks to the fixed gear and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Dolní věž
Up the center of the W wall, higher up to the left via a crack and further up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Dolní věž
From the valley side up the right SE edge, higher up directly through a crack in the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dolní věž
Up the valley SW edge, later up the wall diagonally right under the overhang. From the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Dolní věž
Through the crack in the middle of the plateau wall. Rock Climbing
6
Dolní věž
To the left of route c. First strenuous section up the overhanging wall over 2 K directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dolní věž
Up the E wall to the ledge, traverse left into the S wall and along that to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Verunka
In the right part of the valley wall over the 1st ring to the fore-summit. Then up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Ťava
In the S wall from the corner, up the wall over the BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Verunka
Description: Easily from the plateau side and with a step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Ťava
From the plateau side along the ledge to the saddle and to any summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Verunka
Up the center of the wall between the crack and the edge over the 1st ring to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Dolní věž
From the valley side up the overhanging NW edge to the fixed gear Rock Climbing
6-
Verunka
Up the right valley edge over the BH to the ledge, left and over K. to the balcony. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Četař
In the S wall along the edge to the balcony to the 2nd BH of the route "Stop Progress"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ťava
In the N wall, briefly through a corner. Traverse right (fixed gear) and along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ťava
Up the side wall along the small pillar to the ledge (ring) and up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Ťava
From the N wall (hourglass) to the saddle. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ťava
In the N wall, with a lift to the ring. Higher up the wall to the ledge (Bh) and directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Ťava
In the N wall via a corner (BH) below the overhang. Directly over it (2nd BH) and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Četař
Along the narrow valley wall along the edge over 2Bh to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Četař
Right of the route "Base way" via the wall to the balcony, then left via the slab (Bh)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Četař
In the left part of the tower, via a receding crack to the ring. Then via the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Četař
Start via Base Way 1st ring, from there diagonally left via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Rampelník
In the right part of the valley wall over the overhang along the crack, higher up along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Rampelník
About 4m left of "Šátravá var." via a fine crack (hourglass) to a large hourglass, right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rampelník
From the top left behind the edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Rampelník
Along the valley edge over a ring and 2BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Rampelník
Via a crack below the rappel point to the top. Rock Climbing

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