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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Horní věž
On the S side from the slope to the ledge, traverse right and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Horní věž
Right of the route "Southern Crack" via the wall under the roof and along the edge over 6… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Horní věž
Along the upper edge to the balcony and up the steps to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Horní věž
From the start of the "Old Path" to the right into the S wall and a short crack to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Horní věž
To the left in the S side via a crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Horní věž
To the right in the S side via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Horní věž
In the right part of the W wall, over a hole to the 1st ring bolt. Further via the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Horní věž
Right of the 'Francouzská spojka' (French Connection) edge route, via a small gully and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Horní věž
Via the "French Connection Variant" route to the first bolt, then directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Horní věž
In the valley wall, directly below the Upper Tower (right of the French Connection route)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Horní věž
About 3m left of the Náhorní (Upland) Edge, directly to the summit via a slab. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Růžová vyhlídka
In the right part of the S wall (right of the "Advent Time" route) from the fore-rock,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Růžová vyhlídka
In the middle of the S wall, over an overhang into a crack and via that to a ledge. Via a… Rock Climbing
5+
Růžová vyhlídka
Right in the S wall, via a fine crack to a ledge. Left via a crack, higher via a corner… Rock Climbing
4+
Růžová vyhlídka
From the 1st bolt of the "Smyčky taky" (Loops Also) route, directly via the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Růžová vyhlídka
Completely in the right part of the S wall, via a hand crack, higher via the wall to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Růžová vyhlídka
From the saddle between the Upper Tower and the massif, via a hand crack in the W wall to… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Růžová vyhlídka
Left of the route 'Rychle a jednoduše' (Fast and Simple), via the pillar over 2 bolts to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Růžová vyhlídka
Right of the S edge, via the wall into a crack and via that to a large ledge. Via the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Růžová vyhlídka
Right of the Děčín Edge, via the wall to a crack (1st ring bolt), via that and higher via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Růžová vyhlídka
Right in the W wall over 2 ring bolts. Higher along the crack to the balcony. Via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Růžová vyhlídka
Right of the Rosarium route (and left of the start of the Děčín Edge), via the W edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Růžová vyhlídka
Left of the route "Skotačivý stařík" (Playful Old Man), via the rib and wall, higher over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Růžová vyhlídka
Left in the S wall, alternately via the right and left crack of the break to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Růžová vyhlídka
Right of the route 'Rychle a jednoduše' (Fast and Simple), along the crack (ring bolt) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Růžová vyhlídka
From the NE via a prominent corner in the left part of the massif (approx. 15m left of… Rock Climbing
4+
Růžová vyhlídka
Along the right valley edge over 2BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Růžová vyhlídka
To the left below the Upper Tower, up corner cracks to grassy terrain and thus below the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Růžová vyhlídka
In the left part of the valley wall, up the crack and wall over a ring to the summit.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Růžová vyhlídka
Corner with an overhang behind the ridge cone. About three meters to the left of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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