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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Jedlová stěna
In the middle of the NW wall via the wall under the overhang, later via a crack over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Jedlová stěna
Through the middle of the wall over 3BH to the ledge. Through the wall into the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jedlová stěna
To the left of the chimney via the wall to 1. and 2. BH. From there from the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Bronx (Křikloun)
Completely on the right in the south wall via a falconet, higher up in the middle of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Hadí hlava
Along the edge in the right part of the massif (2K) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Jedlová stěna
In the left part of the massif, from the corner via a crack, higher up the wall over 3BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hadí hlava
In the middle of the SW wall via a crack (slings) to the summit (rappel). Rock Climbing
6-
Hadí hlava
Through the wall (hour-glass) under the overhang, over it (BH) into the recess, higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jedlová stěna
Massif behind the Ridge Cone. To the left of the chimney via the wall over 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Bronx (Křikloun)
Up the edge via a bolt to a ledge and along it under the crack to 2 bolts. Up the crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Broadway
Along the right valley edge under the overhang to the 1st ring. Via the slab to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Bronx (Křikloun)
In the middle of the valley (S) face, up the wall, edge, and crack to a large ledge. From… Rock Climbing
5+
Bronx (Křikloun)
Up the corner to the block (pinnacle) and up the wall directly over 3 bolts to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Broadway
Left of the start of the route "KILL BILL", up the wall along the edge (ring), higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Broadway
Up the left valley edge and the wall under the overhang to the 1st ring. Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Broadway
In the center of the NW face, via cracks along the corner up to a ledge. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Broadway
Up the center of the valley face (ring) under the overhang. Hand traverse right on the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Broadway
In the left part of the valley face, to the left of the small corner, via a small crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Brooklyn
Up the center of the valley face via a crack and small wall to the ring. Directly over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Brooklyn
Start completely on the right in the South face, up the wall to the ring. Directly along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Brooklyn
In the right part of the valley face, via cracks to a ledge (right behind the edge of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Qvakinovo doupě
Up the crack to the flake. Right up the wall via BH to the rappel BH. (Small massif left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Romadur
Up the middle of the valley wall via steps, higher up the wall via 2BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Romadur
At the left valley edge briefly up the crack, higher up to the right past the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mys neklidných vod
Along the left edge of the valley pillar through the break, higher up through the crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mys neklidných vod
Briefly through the corner (belay) and up the slightly overhanging wall via BH, ring and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Mys neklidných vod
In the left part of the valley wall, through the corner, diagonally right to the edge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Mys neklidných vod
Up the small pillar (slightly overhanging start) along the crack to the balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Mys neklidných vod
3m left of the valley corner, up the wall via 2 BH, then up the overhanging wall via 4 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Mys neklidných vod
From the terrace in the SE wall along the edge via 3BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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