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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Mys neklidných vod
Left of the large corner, up the wall to the bolt, right through the crack via 2 bolts,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kredenc
Via the "Onion" route to the 1st BH. From there, diagonally right over the 2nd BH. beyond… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Kredenc
Crack under the overhang and from the left over it (BH). Directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kredenc
Wall over 2 BH to the fore-rock (belay). Corner and left to the edge to BH. Edge over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kredenc
In the right part of the massif (left of the chimney) up the wall via 2Bh to the fore… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kredenc
In the right part of the massif (to the left of the chimney) up the wall over 2 BH. to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kredenc
Lift to the ring and wall to the edge to the 2nd ring. Along the edge and higher up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kredenc
Via the "Scent of Spices" route to the balcony. Briefly through the corner and up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kredenc
Valley wall from the left via a small chimney diagonally to the right, then through the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kredenc
From S via a corner in the side wall and BH wall to a shelf. Wall into an oval hole and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kredenc
Valley wall along the left edge over 2K. and BH. to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Kotelna
Valley wall via 3 BH to the balcony to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Kredenc
In the left part of the side wall along the crack to the first floor. Chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kotelna
To the left of the route Fake Empire up the wall over 3 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Kotelna
Valley wall via 2nd K to the balcony to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Kotelna
Left wall in the valley corner (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kotelna
In the upper alcove (north side above Náfrtka) the right route over 6 BH to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Náfuka
In the large corner of the S wall over 2 BH to the balcony to the abseil BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Náfuka
South wall along the valley edge, higher up slightly to the right over 4 BH to the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Náfuka
West wall via 2 BH to the edge to the 3rd BH of the route "Smaller ..." and then to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Letiště
From the valley up the wall and edge (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Letiště
To the left of the route Ideal Lover, through the corner (SM) to the end, left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Letiště
From the start of the Czech Airlines route, traverse left to the crack (SU), along it and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Letiště
From the overgrown ledge in the middle of the wall via a depression (SM) and higher up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Robinson
To the right of the right crack (Plavčík svátek route) up the wall via 2 BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Kšiltovka
Along the overhanging valley edge to the BH, higher up the wall along a crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Robinson
Along the left edge of the upper pillar via 2 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Robinson
Up the pillar via 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Robinson
Via the right crack to the balcony. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Kšiltovka
In the middle of the valley wall over K and an overhang along the crack to the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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