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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Robinson
Up the middle of the wall between the cracks via 3 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Robinson
Up the wall to the right of the chimney directly over 2 BH to the balcony. Optionally to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Robinson
Via the left crack (to the right of the chimney with a wedged boulder) to the balcony. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5+
Robinson
On the South side to the right of the prominent left chimney, up the wall to blocks, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Robinson
From the balcony in the N wall to the right of the Ztoskotanec route, up the wall via 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
9/9+
Robinson
From the balcony in the N wall via a BH directly to the hourglass (formation) and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Slunečný roh
Through the massif between the routes Pocket Rocket and Copacabana (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Slunečný roh
Through the massif between the routes Pocket Rocket and Copacabana (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kalhotkový pilíř
Left of the route "Capricious Summer" via a breakthrough and corner/dihedral to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kalhotkový pilíř
Left of the route “Immoral Proposals” via the wall (8 BH) to the rappel point. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Stěna rogalistů
Through a prominent corner/dihedral, in it from the left over a small overhang and… Rock Climbing
2
Stěna rogalistů
In the left part of the massif, via a corner (photo) Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pirátský ostrov
In the right part of the wall, photo. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pirátský ostrov
In the left part of the wall, photo. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Pinta
From the block on the valley side, up the center of the wall to a ledge and left along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Pinta
From the block on the valley side, traverse left and along the flakes to a small balcony.… Rock Climbing
6-
Pinta
To the right of the "Santa Maria" route, via a corner and up the wall to the left of the… Rock Climbing
5
Kýl
From the NW in a corner via a chimney/crack and crack to a ledge. Right via a chimney… Rock Climbing
4-
Ledová věž
Up the narrow plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Ledová věž
To the left in the North face under the overhang and up the wall to the right to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Ledová věž
To the left in the South face via K directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Ledová věž
From the plateau side, traverse right to the balcony on the valley wall. Over the… Rock Climbing
4-
Ledová věž
Up the center of the North face to the ledge, over the overhang and directly up the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Ledová věž
Up the crack in the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Bernard
Up the SW face directly into a short crack (loop) and over the ledge to the 1st bolt. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Bernard
To the right of Nezmar, up the overhanging wall past a bolt (bh) and higher up the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Kubík
From the stone, up the center of the plateau wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kubík
Along the left plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bernard
Up the crack in the left part of the NW face below the overhang, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Bernard
Through a small crack in the W edge to a ledge and to the 1st bolt. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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