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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Argus
From the gully between the W and central pillar, in the left part of the NW wall, over 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Argus
Through the middle of the NW wall via 2 bolts to the rappel station at the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Argus
In the right part of the NW wall of the central pillar, from the terrace to the right of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Argus
On the SE pillar from the fore-rock, briefly through a crack in the left part of the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Argus
Right in the NW wall of the central pillar, from the terraces via an overhanging corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Argus
Through a broken corner from the valley to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Argus
Up the NW face of the left pillar over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Argus
In the left part of the NW wall, via a corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kiwan
From SW, up the narrow gully to the ledge and up the wall (K) over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kiwan
In the middle of the S wall, up the crack to the end and right to K. Up the rib and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Kiwan
At the SW edge, 3 meters stemming and then up the wall along the edge to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kiwan
To the right of the 'Mistr lepič' route, up the chimney, higher up a wide crack in the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kiwan
From the balcony to the right of Skřítek on the left pillar, up the crack through… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Kiwan
Up the corner of the 'Mistr lepič' route and left to a ledge in the middle of the North… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kiwan
From the balcony to the left of Viklan, up the small corner and along the NW edge (3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Matylda
Up the Upper East Ridge over 2 bolts to a ledge and via a crack to the 2nd bolt of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Matylda
To the left of the Rathenská route, up a small wall into a crack (bolt) and further to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Matylda
From the passage in the South face diagonally right over 2 bolts. Slightly right and via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Matylda
In the right part of the South face, from the corner up a small chimney to the balcony,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Matylda
Through a narrow chimney, corner, and crack (hourglass) to the balcony. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Matylda
From the gully in the South face, up the left crack to the balcony to the bolt of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Matylda
Through a narrow chimney like 'The Key Finder' to the small tower. Up the wall (bolt) to… Rock Climbing
6
Matylda
Up the pillar between the routes 'Prodírám se mlázím' (I'm pushing through the… Rock Climbing
4+
Matylda
In the left part of the valley wall, up the middle chimney to the platform by the pine… Rock Climbing
5+
Matylda
Through the corner above Bouzek to the ledge. Up the small wall via a bolt to the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Matylda
From the gully in the South face, up the right crack to the balcony (bolt). Higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Matylda
In the left part of the valley wall, start with small cracks, then a crack and in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Strážce podskalí
From the boulder on the plateau side, with a dynamic mantle move to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Matylda
In the left part of the valley wall, up the left chimney to a wedged boulder. Via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strážce podskalí
Below the saddle, traverse the South face to a ledge left to the valley edge and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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