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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Strážce podskalí
In the right part of the valley wall, to the right of the 'Česká pošta' (Czech Post)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Strážce podskalí
From the base to the right towards the valley edge, 10m up to the balcony. Left around… Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce podskalí
Up the middle of the valley wall over 2 Rings to the crack, then up the gully (3rd Ring)… Rock Climbing
5+
Matylda
In the left part of the valley wall, up a small wall over 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Strážce podskalí
In the middle of the south face, via a rib and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Strážce podskalí
Up the North face via 4BH. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Strážce podskalí
Along the left valley edge directly over 2 bolts to the ring of the valley route and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Strážce podskalí
On the left side of the valley wall, through a hole to a ledge. Via the small pinnacle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Dýmka míru
Right edge of the valley wall via 3BH to the abseil anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Dýmka míru
Variant of Jaesu, from the bottom along the edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Čertík
From the plateau side via the abseil ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čertík
Up the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čertík
From the left, up the wall to the valley edge and directly up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Dýmka míru
Up the crack of the valley wall to the 1st ring, then to the abseil anchor. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hradní věž
From S to the balcony in the massif, drop onto the ledge in the S wall and diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hradní věž
Like the "Southeast Route" to the ledge in the S wall. From its end, hand-traverse along… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Maxi
From the ledge, along the left valley (NW) edge over the BH and clock to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Maxi
Along the upper Eastern slabby edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Hradní věž
From the massif, jump into the upper wall and briefly to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Hradní věž
From K up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hradní věž
Like the "Southeast Route" to the ledge in the S wall and diagonally left up the dihedral… Rock Climbing
6-
Maxi
From the terrace on the valley side, up the wall over the bh to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hradní věž
From the SE edge, diagonally left up the wall to the 1st K of the "Rambo" route and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hradní věž
Like "Summer Variation" to the ledge. Directly up the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Hradní věž
Right of the left valley NW edge up the crack, rib, and wall under the overhang to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Hradní věž
From the 1st K of "Open Shutters" directly up the edge (BH) to the ceiling crack. Along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hradní věž
Right in the S wall to K and right up the small crack to the ledge. Rock Climbing
6
Hradní věž
Left in the S wall via a crack to the 1st K, up the wall to the ledge at the K of the … Rock Climbing
6
Hradní věž
Between the "Summer Variation" and "Rambo" routes, directly up the wall over K to the K… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Hradní věž
To the right on the valley side, about 2m up the corner, step left onto the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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