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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Hradní věž
Via the "Stará cesta" (Old Path) to a large block, (by standing up) left into a hole and… Rock Climbing
6-
Hradní věž
Left of the "Ant Route" up the wall over the overhang and along the indentation (K) into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Hradní věž
Along the left valley edge to the ledge at the 1st K. Along the edge, higher up under the… Rock Climbing
6
Hradní věž
Like the "Ant Route" to K. Diagonally left up the wall into the hole and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Hradní věž
From the gorge to the large block at the NE edge. (By standing up) to the clock and… Rock Climbing
4+
Hradní věž
From the beginning of the crack, traverse right to the NW edge, up the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hradní věž
Along the "Old Road" to the clock, then diagonally left to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hradní věž
Along the "Old Road" to the large block and about 6m right of the NE edge (by standing up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masív u Hradní věže
From the gully between Hradní věž (Castle Tower) and the massif, in the right part, up a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Masív u Hradní věže
In the left part of the massif, up a chimney and wall (ring). Higher up a crack … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Albi
From the boulder, difficult onto the E edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Albi
To the right in the valley wall, along the edge, partly by stemming to a small foresummit… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Albi
Through the middle of the north wall between the pine trees to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Albi
To the left in the valley wall, up a corner with a crack, at the top through the rock… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Albi
In the left part of the S wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Albi
Through the left part of the N wall, up the slabby wall over a small pinnacle directly to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Ranní věž
Directly up the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Ranní věž
To the left in the S wall to the overhanging rib and along it to the ledge. Directly up… Rock Climbing
4-
Ranní věž
From the right onto the block at the SE edge and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2+
Ranní věž
Through the chimney in the N wall to the plateau in the E wall, right to the ledge and up… Rock Climbing
5+
Ranní věž
To the right in the N wall directly (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Ranní věž
To the left of the SW edge, up the wall. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Suchar
Through the wall via a bolt into a crack, through it and the wall to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Půlnoční kámen
From the East side via a corner to the pulpit and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Půlnoční kámen
From the North via a corner, higher up via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Půlnoční kámen
Through the center of the West face via 2K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Půlnoční kámen
Left in the West face along ledges, higher up along the NW edge (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Půlnoční kámen
From the upper (South) side onto the fore-rock and up the wall diagonally to the right to… Rock Climbing
2+
Půlnoční kámen
In the South face via a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Půlnoční kámen
To the right of the "Old Route" along an indistinct edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing

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