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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Kukačka
From the SW between the tower and the massif to the plateau in the chimney. Rock Climbing
2+
Kukačka
From SE (10m right of Owl) via the chimney to the saddle behind Owl and descend to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Kukačka
Through the middle of the valley wall over an overhang and a recess to another overhang.… Rock Climbing
5+
Kukačka
Like "South Edge Variant", through the chimney and left to K. Up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kukačka
To the right of "Chimney", up the wall below the rappel point (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kukačka
To the right of the "Direct Valley" route, up the wall over an overhang (K) directly to K… Rock Climbing
4+
Kukačka
On the NE side, up a small wall to the ledge, along it to the right into the valley wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kukačka
Approach like "Valley Route" and overhanging NW wall (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kukačka
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif. Rock Climbing
3
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the Nagorný massif descend to the ledge, step over and directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kukačka
Like "Valley Route" to the ledge and along the edge (K) to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Approach from the rock outcrop to the left of the route "Service Leave". Up a small wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the summit of "Sova", along the edge of "Stalin's Head" over 3 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the left of the Sunday Chimney route, up the wall to the bolt, right and along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the SW corner briefly to the balcony, directly up the wall into a small crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the right of the chimney between Sova and Josef's Head, a corner double crack to a… Rock Climbing
2+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Through the valley chimney to the plateau and from there through the E chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Approach to the southern pillar (Sojka) from the rock outcrop. Overhang in the corner to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Through the chimney to Sova, in its upper part from the corner left into the wall to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Through the crack and wall over to K directly to 1st K "Invitations". Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Up the wall between the routes Invitation and Direct Invitation over 4 bolts and a rappel… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the right of Direct Invitations, over the pillar via 4 bolts to the 2nd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the top of Sova, along the wall over BH and K into the chimney. Through it over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
To the left of "Chimney" on Cuckoo, through a crack, then up the wall to 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
In the N wall through a deep corner up to below the large overhang (1st K). Traverse left… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
In the NW wall, right of the start of the "Konklave" route, through cracks into a shallow… Rock Climbing
6-
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Left in the N wall via a hand crack to K, traverse right into another crack and along it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
From the 1st K of Planet of the Apes, up the wall slightly left over BH to the end of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Josefova (Stalinova) hlava
Right of "Planet of the Apes" up the rib to the 1st K and up to the next rib (2nd K).… Rock Climbing
5
Masiv u Josefovy hlavy
Left in the N wall through a crack and fissure under the overhang (slings) and over them… Rock Climbing

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