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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Bukvice
Through the center of the South face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bukvice
Initially via the overhanging SW edge, higher up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Bukvice
Up the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Bukvice
In the right part of the North face, via a small chimney behind the edge, then up the… Rock Climbing
5
Bukvice
Like the route "Train Goes Up", and up the sloping wall via the ring directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bukvice
Left in the South face along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Bukvice
Left in the valley wall, along the blunt edge, via a small chimney and higher up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Bukvice
In the right part of the overhanging valley wall via the ring to the balcony and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Tajga
From the massif, traverse to the upper wall and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Bukvice
In the left part of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Bukvice
Through the center of the upper wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bukvice
In the left part of the North face via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Bukvice
To the right of the North Route, up the wall via the ring and further to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tajga
Right of the route "Morning Torture of Waking Up" via a crack running away to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tajga
Approx. 3m right of the route SE Edge, from the protrusion. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Tajga
Right of the chimney via the rib and wall into the crack, through it to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tajga
From the ledge via the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Tajga
5 m right of the Ekshary route, up the wall to the ledge and left to the large hourglass… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Tajga
Left in the South face via the right crack and wall over ledges to the balcony, ring from… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Tajga
All the way to the right in the plateau wall (by passage in the chimney) right via a… Rock Climbing
3
Kvádr
2 m right of the valley route, directly straight up the rib to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Tajga
All the way to the right in the S face via the blunt edge through the hole to the ledge… Rock Climbing
3
Kvádr
On the plateau side from the block via a small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tajga
About 6 m right of the Tears of Evenki route, up the wall to the rib over ledges to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kvádr
In the right part of the S face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kvádr
Along the valley wall to the left to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Východní blok
To the left of Výslech (Interrogation) via a corner, via a crack to the balcony, left via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Východní blok
From the right side of the SE face via a small wall over 2 bolts to the abseil bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Východní blok
Up the middle of the SW pillar directly over three BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kukačka
In the chimney between the tower and the massif, passage to the SW side, there through… Rock Climbing

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