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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Rudolf Jelínek
Along the sharp edge in the right part of the north face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Rudolf Jelínek
Along the left edge of the pillar higher through a small corner and along the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Rudolf Jelínek
Along the East face of the narrow pillar and the edge to the bolt. Right above the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9+
Rudolf Jelínek
In the left part of the north face directly via the bolt to the second bolt, from there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Rudolf Jelínek
On the central pillar of the massif along the NE edge over 4 BH to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Rudolf Jelínek
From the starting blocks of the Old Route to Caesar via a small pillar (2 BH) without… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Strýček
Unknown route to the right of the valley chimney (BH and belay BH), see photo red dots … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Strýček
Along the blunt edge (loops) to the bolt hanger, from the right wall to the belay bolt… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Mlýnský pytel
To the right of the "All the Butts in the World" route, up the wall and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Mlýnský pytel
Narrow wall to the right of the "PP Route" 2K and rappel, see photo. /route is available… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Mlýnský pytel
In the right part of the valley wall along the edge over 4 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Mlýnský pytel
Up the center of the southeast face over 3 bolts and an overhang to the summit. … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Mlýnský pytel
Through the "S chimney" to the gap, traverse left to the edge (hourglass) and up it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Mlýnský pytel
To the right of the "Blog" route, up the wall over 3 bolts to the overhang (BH), ascend… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Mlýnský pytel
Start in the right part of the W wall. Up the gully and diagonally left up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6
Mlýnský pytel
From the bivouac on the W side, to the right of the South Chimney route, up the corner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mlýnský pytel
From the S, directly up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Mlýnský pytel
From the large S corner between Mlýnský pytel and Alaska, ascend the right part of the NE… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mlýnský pytel
Start at the NW corner of the massif. Diagonally left up the wall to a crack and along it… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Aljaška
In the large S corner between Mlýnský pytel and Alaska, a prominent edge from the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Mlýnský pytel
To the left of the Klimatický zlom route along the edge to the 1st ring, right into a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2+
Mlýnský pytel
From the NE, via the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Aljaška
To the left of the setting sun's edge route, up the slabby wall (clock) to the circle,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Aljaška
In the left part of the wall, over an overhang into a chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Aljaška
In the middle of the wall, from the overhang right via a crack to the balcony. Angled… Rock Climbing
6
Aljaška
To the right of the path, explore the wall and crack to the end. Up the wall (large clock… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Aljaška
In the left part of the S wall, right of the large corner, along the edge to the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Aljaška
Left of the "Průzkum" route, along a short crack over an overhang to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Polárník
In the right part of the massif, directly up the wall over 2 rings into a crack, follow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Argus
From the fore-rock in the valley wall, through the right part over 4 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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