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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Hastrman
Up the NE face to the ring. Over the overhang along the edge and another overhang to the… Rock Climbing
3
Hastrman
From the saddle to the small balcony, step to the left into the valley wall and to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hastrman
Start like the Valley Route. Up the crack and wall by the edge to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Prašivka
Center of the north face up the crack to the clock and up the rib to the ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Prašivka
Center of the S face past the bolt, as above. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Prašivka
Center of the downhill (NW) face up the crack (clock) and right under the flake to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Prašivka
Right part of the downhill face past the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Prašivka
Up the uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kočička
Center of the NE face into a crack and to a ring. Up the face across the balcony to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6+/7-
Kočička
In the center of the N face to a crack and up the face (ring) across a large balcony,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kočička
From the corner to the ring, from the left over the overhang and up the south face to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Kočička
Wide crack up the SW face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kočička
From the ring of the Berlení route to the ledge and right to the edge. Along the edge to… Rock Climbing
6-
Kočička
Up the face to the right of Normální cesta (Údolního koutu) to the ring. Then into the… Rock Climbing
2
Kočička
From the plateau side, easily along the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Chlebník
Up the face to the right of Údolní cesta, past the ring into the gully and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7/7+
Lesník
From the slope in the space between the massif and the tower, up the overhanging face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Lesník
Start left of "Severní cesta". Up the crack to the 1st K. Diagonally right to the rib and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Lesník
Through the center of the NW face by a short rib to the 1st K. Up the face to the 2nd K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lesník
From the center of the north face along the ledge to the right to the 1st K. Up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Lesník
Through the center of the north face by a corner crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Lesník
Variant along the edge past the 1st ring of the Krycí Jméno route and along the edge of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lesník
From the slope in the south face, left to the ledge and up the face past 2K n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Lesník
Along the valley (west) edge to the 1st K. Up the face diagonally left to the 2nd K. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lesník
From the space between "Chlebník" up the face past K to the large ledge and left along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lesník
From the slope, through the center of the south face, to the corner between the east and… Rock Climbing
2
Lesník
From the saddle, up the uphill edge. Rock Climbing
3
Lesník
Left in the south face over K to the eastern peak. Rock Climbing
5+
Široký roh
By crack to the beginning of the gully near the right edge of the wall to a large boulder… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Nuget
By rib and wide crack to the balcony, up to the ring and to the right. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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