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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Strážní stěna
Up the right overhanging edge, difficult, to the bolt. Along the edge to a large balcony… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážní stěna
By the right crack and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážní stěna
In the right part of the overhanging wall to a chimney, up it and traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážní stěna
By a hand crack in the middle of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Strážní stěna
To the left of Údolní spára (Valley Crack), up the face passing two bolts to the… Rock Climbing
6
Strážní stěna
Start as the south edge up to the overhang. Traverse left into a crack to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážní stěna
In the right part of the overhanging wall, by a hand crack, widening towards the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážní stěna
In the left part of the valley face, up the deep corner to the end into a hole. Up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Strážní stěna
Up the center of the north face along the rib to the second ledge. Right up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Strážní stěna
The climb follows the left valley edge. Diagonally left to the edge to the 1st bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážní stěna
In the right part of the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Strážní stěna
In the left part of the valley face, up the fissure to the balcony of the Muzikanti route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Strážní věž
Up the left uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážní věž
From the uphill side, traverse right behind the edge to the fissure and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážní věž
Up the wide crack in the north face to the balcony and then up the north route to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážní věž
On the right in the uphill face, passing a bolt, to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážní věž
Up the right crack in the north face to the ledge to the bolt. Up the crack to the sub… Rock Climbing
6
Strážní věž
In the right part of the northeast face, passing 2 bolts, to the balcony. Up the face to… Rock Climbing
5+
Strážní věž
In the left part of the north face, up the hand crack to the balcony and from it, an… Rock Climbing
6-
Strážní věž
In the north face, up the crack and fissure, passing a bolt, to the ledge. Right along… Rock Climbing
6-
Strážní věž
Overhang in the valley face to the small corner. Up the small corner, face and small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Strážní věž
From the edge of the valley face, below the overhang and traverse left into the corner.… Rock Climbing
5+
Strážní věž
To the right of Čertova spára (Devil's Crack), a short crack into a hole and traverse… Rock Climbing
6-
Strážní věž
Up the right valley route to the platform with the pine tree. Then up the overhanging… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážní věž
In the left part of the southwest face to the platform with the pine tree. Up the wide… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážní věž
In the gully between Strážní stěna (Guardian Wall) and the tower, follow the crack around… Rock Climbing
6
Strážní věž
Up the center of the south face, passing a bolt, to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážní věž
From the start of the route, south crack, go left to the bolt. Along the edge and higher… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážní věž
From the balcony, directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážní věž
From the uphill side, traverse into the south face to a balcony and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing

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