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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Obr
Through the center of the SE wall to a ring, to the right into a hole and through an… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Obr
From the large "clock" on the "Goldsmith's Scales" route, through the wall to the left to… Rock Climbing
5+
Obr
Start as the SE route, immediately traverse to the right. Through the right part of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Obr
To the right in the gully, through the wall over overhangs (4 rings) to the 1st ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Obr
From the large overgrown platform in the NE wall, through the center to the 1st ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Obr
To the left of the E edge, a rib, later a double crack to the right onto a balcony.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Obr
Chimney in the left part of the valley wall to a platform to a ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Obr
From the NE, easily from the gully onto a platform in the NE wall to a ring. From the…
5
Obr
From the 2nd ring of the Northern Route directly along the edge over a K n. v. (Kote nad… Rock Climbing
5+
Běliningrad
Along the left downhill edge to the bolt of the route 'Alcoholic Tremor'. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Běliningrad
Up the edge, passing the bolt, to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Venušin pahorek
From the corner in the south wall to the ledge, crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Venušin pahorek
Through the center of the south wall, use the cracks under the ceiling. Overhang and… Rock Climbing
6
Venušin pahorek
Crack through the center of the downhill wall over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Venušin pahorek
Wall along the right downhill edge over 2 rings to the ring of the Mouse Route. Follow… Rock Climbing
5+
Venušin pahorek
In the south wall, left along the cracks under the overhang to the ring. Overhang and… Rock Climbing
6-
Venušin pahorek
Along the left downhill (N) edge, wall over 2 rings to the ledge. Right with crack and… Rock Climbing
6-
Venušin pahorek
Short climb up the long corner. Traverse right over the edge to the ring and crack to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Venušin pahorek
Through the center of the north wall, use the crack and wall to the left to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
5
Venušin pahorek
Through the center of the north wall, use the crack over the ledge to the notch and right… Rock Climbing
5
Venušin pahorek
On the right in the north wall, use the corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Terasa pod rozhlednou
In the left part of the valley face, gentle chimney to the 1st ring. Face and crack to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
6-
Terasa pod rozhlednou
To the left of the right valley edge, past 2 rings to the 2nd ring of the "In the Fire of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7
Terasa pod rozhlednou
On the left on the west side, shallow rib and crack (1st ring) to the shelf. Slightly… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Pustý zámek
From the space between the massif and the tower, in the left part of the wall up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Pustý zámek
4+
Pustý zámek
Right of the South route over 'hours' and a peg (K) and up the crack.
3
Pustý zámek
From the gully of the SE edge. Rock Climbing
4-
Pustý zámek
Up the crack under the abseil point to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Pustý zámek
From the gully between the massif and the tower, up the wall diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing

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