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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Pustý zámek
Up the NW wall over 2 rings to the ring of the 'Botanical Error' route and up it. Rock Climbing
5+
Pustý zámek
Start from the NE edge, up the overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Pustý zámek
Up the NW wall over three rings. From the 3rd ring diagonally left along the edge, crack… Rock Climbing
3
Pustý zámek
Up the center of the upper wall along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Pustý zámek
From the chimney traverse right into the recess and up it to the ring. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Pustý zámek
Up the chimney to a large break, from there right and up another chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Pustý zámek
From a corner in the North wall, take the right crack under the overhang and diagonally… Rock Climbing
6
Pustý zámek
In the NW corner of the tower, up the North chimney to a block and up to the 'hours'.… Rock Climbing
6-
Pustý zámek
In the corner, take the middle crack into the interior space of the tower. From there, a… Rock Climbing
5
5+
Pustý zámek
In the left part of the valley wall, a crack under an overhang (belay). Traverse right… Rock Climbing
4+
Pustý zámek
In the corner of the valley wall, left of the chimney between the massif and the tower.… Rock Climbing
4+
Pustý zámek
2
Pustý zámek
Gorge from the S edge over the blocks to the platform and slightly to the right n. v. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Ježek
Along the right valley edge over 2 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Hranolek
On the right in the S wall along the fine cracks to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hranolek
From the plateau on the right in the valley wall along the indistinct edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Hranolek
Through the center of the S wall over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hranolek
Through the center of the S wall chimney to the ledge. Briefly to the left and another… Rock Climbing
5
Hranolek
To the left in the valley wall from the blocks between Hranol and Hranolek to the right… Rock Climbing
5
Hranolek
NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Hranolek
From the saddle from Hranol up the wall to the ledge to the ring. Up to the step on the… Rock Climbing
5
Sírová věž
In the left part of the upland (SE) face under the large overhang and up the crack to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Sírová věž
Under the overhang to the left behind the edge and in the right part of the face to the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Sírová věž
Through the middle of the valley face to the small balcony. Up the crack to the bolt and… Rock Climbing
5+
Sírová věž
In the right part of the upland (SE) face under the large overhang and traverse to the… Rock Climbing
6
Sírová věž
Up the crack in the valley edge to the bolt. Right along the edge to the small crack, up… Rock Climbing
6-
Sírová věž
Up the crack in the middle of the north face to its end and left up the face to the bolt.… Rock Climbing
4-
Sírová věž
On the left in the south face, up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Obelisk
Right of the old route several meters upwards, right to the crack and up to the platform… Rock Climbing

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