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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Hrad
Up the center of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hrad
Up the wall near the S edge, later through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hrad
Through a crack in the E face under the overhang to the ring, and then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Hrad
From the grassy area to the right of the S route, along the edge and a crack to the… Rock Climbing
3
Hrad
From the upper side, through the chimney between the peaks. Rock Climbing
4-
Lesní kámen
Along the edge to the right of path a). Rock Climbing
6-
Hrad
Left of the start to the E edge, diagonally left across the wall to a ledge with a ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Hrad
Right from st. c. by stemming between the tower and the outcrop to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Lesní kámen
Left in the north wall at R, bh and 2nd R. to G. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Lesní kámen
In the north face, to the right of the route Jen pro bílé (Only for White) up the face… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Lesní kámen
To the left of the Údolní spára (Valley crack) up the face directly over the 2nd bolt to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Lesní kámen
Up the valley-side crack to the ledge, along it to the left and up the hand crack to the… Rock Climbing Danger
6-
Lesní kámen
In the left part of the south face, through the hole to the ring and further to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Lesní kámen
In the right part of the valley-side overhanging face, from the stone to the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Lesní kámen
Start to the left of the stone to the 1st bolt of the route BD Rock Climbing
4+
Lesní kámen
Up the valley-side face via the crack near the NW edge. Rock Climbing
6-
Lesní kámen
Up the face over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Lesní kámen
Rock Climbing
5+
Lesní kámen
From the start directly to the ring and to the top Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Lesní kámen
Up the face over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Lesní kámen
Rock Climbing
3
Lesní kámen
Through the recess in the right part of the E face. Rock Climbing
5+
Březnová věž
Directly over the overhang to the ring and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Březnová věž
To the right of Stará cesta (Old Route), to the edge to the ring. Up the face to the… Rock Climbing
3
Lesní kámen
Through the center of the E face. Rock Climbing
5
Březnová věž
With the edge to the shelf to the ring and up the crack along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Březnová věž
Traverse from the left into the left part of the NE face, up the crack around the pine… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Březnová věž
To the left of Cesta dešťů (Way of Rains), using a small dihedral and the face to its… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Březnová věž
Traverse from the left into the right crack in the NE face and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Březnová věž
From the gully in the right part of the SE face, up the cracks to the small platform and… Rock Climbing

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