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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Březnová věž
On the left side of the SW face, over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Březnová věž
Up the crack in the right part of the valley-side face, later through the corner to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Březnová věž
Up the valley-side (NW) face diagonally left to the ring and to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Březnová věž
On the left side of the SW face, from the ledge to the left to the crack. Up the crack… Rock Climbing
4-
Březnová věž
Inconspicuous crack through the center of the SW face. Rock Climbing
3
Březnová věž
In the corner of the south wall. Rock Climbing
5
Šikmá věž
Right of St. c., edge to the projection and then middle of the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Březnová věž
Edge to the left of St. c. Rock Climbing
4-
Březnová věž
Wall along the South edge (near n. c.). Rock Climbing
5
Šikmá věž
East wall right to the edge and to the ring. Wall and crack right to the edge and to the… Rock Climbing
6
Šikmá věž
In the right part of the north wall, via 2K to the ring of the friends' route and that n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6-
Šikmá věž
In the right part of the North wall, up to the crack, and via that to the ring and then… Rock Climbing
6-
Šikmá věž
Left crack in the North wall. Rock Climbing
5
Šikmá věž
Valley (NW) wall, up the steps to the crack and then to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Šikmá věž
In the right part of the South wall, into a large hole and from it, a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Šikmá věž
From the ledge in the South wall, to the right of the South route, a small wall, a small… Rock Climbing
5
Šikmá věž
From the edge to the horizontal notch to the ring and the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Barbucha
NW edge to the ring. Along the cracks to the overgrown platform. Edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Barbucha
Start from the boulder above Barbuší Cave, past the ring to the ledge to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Šikmá věž
In the corner of the plateau wall. Rock Climbing
3
Barbucha
Left in the North wall, a crack and hollow to the overgrown platform. At the edge to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Barbucha
Right crack in the corner, over the wedged block. Then the rib and higher up at the edge… Rock Climbing
4+
Barbucha
Along the edge, past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Barbucha
In the middle of the South wall, a chimney to the balcony, wall climb n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Barbucha
Double crack to the ledge, then a chimney higher up to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Barbucha
Through the center of the South wall, past the hourglass and ring to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Barbucha
Far right in the V-wall, a small ramp up to the overgrown balcony and the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Barbucha
Right in the South wall, up across the overgrown balcony to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Barbucha
To the right of the Normal Route, a crack and wall climb across the overgrown balcony to… Rock Climbing
2+
Barbucha
To the right of the SE edge, a wall climb across the overgrown balcony to the top. Rock Climbing

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