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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Strážce hranic
From SW to the balcony, short crack and right along the edge to the summit Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce hranic
Through the left chimney in the south face to the summit Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce hranic
Short crack to the niche, through the hole n. v.
4-
Strážce hranic
Along the south edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Strážce hranic
Right of the SE recess, wall to K. Overhanging wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce hranic
Left of the Wedged Chimney, wall over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Strážce hranic
On the right side of the south face, over an wedged block through chimney and wall to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce hranic
Left of the NE route, along the edge to the balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce hranic
Along the SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Strážce hranic
Through the center of the E wall by the crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce hranic
Crack and wall along the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce hranic
In the left part of the NE wall, by the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Strážce hranic
Through the center of the NW wall by the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Veverka
On the right in the NE wall under a small overhang, traverse to the right, then up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Veverka
On the right in the NE wall under a small overhang, traverse to the right, then up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Veverka
On the right in the SE wall, through an overhanging crack to the shelf. Old route to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Veverka
Through the center of the SE wall over K. Rock Climbing
5+
Veverka
From NW. overhang and crack. Rock Climbing
5
Veverka
South arched edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Veverka
In the narrow SW wall, by the rib to Ku, Stenoun. Rock Climbing
3
Veverka
On the edge to the shelf and left through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Veverka
On the right in the NW wall, initially overhanging wall (BH). (Schnullerkino is a brand… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Lebka
Via the short uphill edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Maják
From the massif, an overhang (or leap 1) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Maják
Directly to the summit via the SE edge, passing the ring. Rock Climbing
?
Maják
Below the abseil point, start slightly to the right of the right edge, higher up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
3
Maják
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Čtyřlístek
To the left of the "Nanukáč" route, directly to the summit via a chimney-like fissure. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho
From the massif, descend to the overgrown footbridge, leap into the wall, onto the ledge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Strážce masivu
By the left valley crack, higher up by the wall diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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