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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Strážce masivu
By the right valley crack over the ring, to the end, higher up diagonally left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Rejnok
m to the right of the corner in the massif, by the crack to the balcony, edge and right… Rock Climbing
5
Rejnok
In the valley wall, by the chimney and crack over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Strážce masivu
From the massif, jump to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Rejnok
From the massif, jump to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Rejnok
From the East, from the corner in the massif, by the wall to the chimney and up it to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Rejnok
From the South, descend from the massif and overhang to the valley edge. Follow it to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Tokáňská věž
On the left, in the valley wall, by the chimney to the balcony, traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Tokáňská věž
From the massif, descend and jump onto the smooth sloping belly. Wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Tokáňská věž
By the right valley edge over 2 rings directly to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Mamut
From the South or North, via a chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Mamut
From the South, briefly through a chimney between the tower and the massif, traverse left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Mamut
From the massif, descend and leap to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zelená věž
In the massif, descend 4m through an overgrown gully, overhang, and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Zelená věž
On the left in the valley wall near the NE edge, a crack and gully lead to a balcony.… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Zelená věž
From the summit of Zelený roh, leap to the balcony of the Stará cesta (Old Route) and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Zelená věž
Far right in the South massif, a leap to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zelená věž
From the start of the Old Route, make a long traverse to the left and climb the sloping… Rock Climbing
2
Zelená věž
From the South, climb the chimney and double crack to the saddle between the Zelený roh … Rock Climbing
5+
Zub
Climb the edge to the bolt from the right to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Zub
In the right part of the downhill wall, climb the wall along the edge via 2 BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Zub
From the valley, climb the chimney and the edge via BH n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Zub
Through the center of the East wall via a ring to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Zub
Climb the gully in the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Vosí věž
Climb the South wall to the ring, then by stacking and the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vosí věž
To the right of the Old Route, climb the wall via a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Vosí věž
To the left of the Klubový žlab (Club Gully) route, use a chimney and climb the wall via… Rock Climbing
9/9+
Vosí věž
Through the center of the East wall via 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vosí věž
Climb the left uphill edge via a ring to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Šakalova věž
From the West of the massif, jump to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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