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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Ama Dablam
Up the north face to the chimney and to the right up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Ama Dablam
From the massif, traverse across the spikes and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Malá věž růžové zahrady
(Building up) onto the northwest edge and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hlava Růžové zahrady
Start left of the "Old Route" up the face over the overhang, then up the face along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
Left of the North Chimney route, up the overhanging face (1st ring), then via the oblique… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
2+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
Right in the east face via crack, then diagonally left up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Křesadlo
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up a step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Křesadlo
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Křesadlo
Up a narrow chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up the face using steps to… Rock Climbing
?
Kalich
From the east of the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kalich
East, diagonally left into the valley face and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Řádný občan
Northeast edge briefly, upwards, then right to the edge into the gully to the ring. Gully… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Spálený hrad
Jump from the massif to the slabby wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Spálený hrad
Start about 5 m to the left of the "South Chimney" route, go up the wall across 3 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Hrot
In the valley face, use the crack in the corner, the rib, and the wall across 3 rings to… Rock Climbing
3
Hrot
Descend from the massif via the gully and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Hrot
Jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Hrot
From the saddle, use the chimney and crack to the ring, then up the wide chimney to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Šikmá věž
From the block in the N face, build into the gully (ring) and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Šikmá věž
From the block at the W edge, overhang and traverse left into the gully. Then up and… Rock Climbing
5
Šikmá věž
Directly to the summit along the right upper (NE) edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Šikmá věž
From the boulder at the SW edge, build on the edge, then diagonally right across the hole… Rock Climbing
4+
Šikmá věž
From the boulder at the SW edge, go left towards the overhang on the edge, and then to… Rock Climbing
5
Špendlík
Rock Climbing
2+
Šikmá věž
By the blunt uphill edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Špendlík
On the right along the downhill edge by the chimney, higher up traverse left to the 1st… Rock Climbing
4+
Špendlík
From the massif descend to the saddle (also ascent from the base of the tower). (Building… Rock Climbing
6-
Špendlík
Rock Climbing
6-
Špendlík
By the downhill edge over the bolt straight to the 1st ring of the Old Daredevil route.… Rock Climbing
3
Pytlák
From the "Pytlácký kámen" tower, descend to the footbridge, traverse and drop into the … Rock Climbing Textile belay

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