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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Pytlák
Between the "Pytlácký kámen" and the tower, climb the chimney from the south and go left… Rock Climbing
?
Kobylka
Leap from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kobylka
Descend via the old route to the saddle, and at the lower wedged boulder, ascend the… Rock Climbing
2+
Kobylka
On the right in the massif, up the chimney into the saddle between the tower and the… Rock Climbing
3
Kobylka
From the boulder, traverse left under the gully and ascend the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Barbucha
In the Southeast face, up the crack to the corner, then higher as Azurit, up the face to… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Barbucha
From Winnie the Pooh, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Barbucha
From the west edge, via a ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Barbucha
Up the smooth Southwest face via a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Vlkodlak
From the west, descend between the towers and up the north chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vlkodlak
From Barbucha, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Barbucha
From the Southwest, via the chimney and then left along the steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Vlkodlak
In the middle of the South face, use the small chimney passing a ring to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing
4-
Bludička
From the East, via the chimney directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Bludička
In the left part of the lower north face, up a crack via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Bludička
From the west, descend via the chimney between the towers, then up the west chimney on… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Vlkodlak
Left of the east edge, up the face via 2 rings directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sysifův kámen
Up the sloping uphill wall directly into the hollow and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sysifův kámen
From the uphill side, up the sloping wall to the left and the overgrown West wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sysifův kámen
From the uphill side, diagonally to the right to the East edge and then to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Jelení věže
Jump from "Upper Tower" directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Jelení věže
Through the chimney between the towers, higher up on the left, up the leaning wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Jelení věže
Through the narrow chimney in the middle of the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Jelení věže
From the chimney between the peaks, through the narrow chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vyvolávač duchů
Uphill wall along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vyvolávač duchů
On the right in the South wall, along the oblique crack to the edge and then to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Nakloněná věž
From the South edge diagonally right around the corner to a large platform. Up the crack… Rock Climbing
4+
Nakloněná věž
Up the South edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Nakloněná věž
From the lowest point of the SE face, straight up to the platform. Up the crack in the… Rock Climbing
5
Nakloněná věž
From the block, up the short overhanging NW edge. Rock Climbing

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