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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Revizor
Descend from the edge, follow the crack to a ledge, traverse and climb the face to the… Rock Climbing
6
Revizor
To the left of the NE edge, build up to a ledge, then left into the middle of the face to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Revizor
Up the upper chimney and from the left around the wedged block, then up the face to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Bivaková
Completely in the right part of the massif via 4K to the summit (1st K=dK) Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8
Bivaková
In the middle of the massif, follow the prominent edge past the 1st dBh to a balcony,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
6
Bivaková
In the right part of the massif, climb the face past 2 bolts to the 3rd bolt. From here,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bivaková
To the right of the bivouac, climb the face to a ramp, then up the right corner to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Bivaková
Left of the bivouac, up the wall along a shallow chimney and a slab directly onto the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Bivaková
From the bivouac, climb the face past a bolt to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Bivaková
From the ramp, left of the southeast edge via a fissure and left up the wall, chimney and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Bivaková
Left from the ramp via a fissure (bolt) to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Bivaková
From the bivouac, follow the right cracks to a ramp, then up the left corner to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kahan
Rock Climbing
2+
Zvonice
Up a diagonal S-shaped wall below a head and left upwards onto a loose head. Rock Climbing
5
Eden
From the gorge behind Rajská věž (Paradise Tower) via a fissure over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Eden
From the ravine left of the Tuplák route, along the crack to a ledge and over the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Eden
From the terrace via a diagonal crack and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Eden
From the terrace via the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Eden
From the terrace behind Rajská věž (Paradise Tower), up the wall to the 1st bolt, via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Eden
Left of the corner, up the wall into a small corner, up it to the balcony. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Eden
Along the edge, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Eden
Up the corner and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Eden
Start via Pravý kout route and left along the edge via 3 BH to a ledge, diagonally right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Eden
Completely to the right in the East wall, up the wall over 3 bolts to the rappel bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Rajská věž
Through the center of the Údolní wall, up the crack over the slab to the ledge, up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Rajská věž
To the right of the N edge, up the cracks to the ledge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rajská věž
From the sloping platform to the left and up the small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Stolová hora
Start like Krása jásá, through the Kruh Údolní cesty to Rajská věž and to the 1st bolt of… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Stolová hora
Via the Senior Club route to the small balcony, then through the hole (UFOs) directly… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Textile belay +1
4+
Modrá věž
Via a crack and chimney in the middle of the east face to the top. Rock Climbing

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