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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Nakloněná věž
From the block, up the short overhanging NW edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Nakloněná věž
Directly up the West edge to the ledge. Then via the Old Route n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Nakloněná věž
From the center of the West face, from the left into the crack, then up. Rock Climbing
2
Lastura
In the left part of the wall to a small terrace (2 bolts), up the wall (bolt) to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7/7+
Jelení skála
Briefly by a valley crack, then directly up the face past 4 bolts to a crack, then up it,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
9/9+
Jelení skála
Up the face to the right of "Valley Crack" (6 bolts). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Jelení skok
Right in the E face by a wide crack to a ring. Up the face. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jelení skok
Left in the E face by a system of cracks (ring) and up the face. Rock Climbing
5+
Jelení skok
SE edge and cracks. Rock Climbing
6
Jelení skok
Right up the S face (1st ring) into a crack, then left with a notch to a small balcony.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jelení skok
Through the wide crack to the slab, from it right through the hand crack to K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jelení skok
Left, up the ferruginous wall to K. Up the slab to the wide crack, then n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Nová pekárna
From the start of the Tři oříšky route, diagonally left up the wall via BH into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
9/9+
Nová pekárna
From the 2nd Bh right via 2 BH to the 2nd K of the Tři oříšky pro ochmelky route. Then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Nová pekárna
Through the center of the wall to the right of the Kvásek route, via 7 BH to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7+/8-
Nová pekárna
Via the crimpy crack of the Tři oříšky route up to the big hourglass, higher directly up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Stará pekárna
Via the "Kuku Variant" to the ring. Then directly up the face past 2 rings, higher up to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Revizor
From the K of the Indián Zoe route, follow the edge to the K of the Little-big Horn route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Revizor
Up the valley corner to the balcony, then up the chimney and the West face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Revizor
To the left of the Koutová cesta, climb the face (K) and the edge to the balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Revizor
Up the left SW edge to the K. To the left, climb the face to a small balcony and then a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Revizor
Via the route "Revize jízdenek" over the K to the balcony and to the left up the sharp… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6
Revizor
To the right of the corner up the face (K) over the overhang to the ledge, up the corner… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Revizor
Via the route Revize jízdenek to the ledge and to the right up the face (1st K) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Revizor
To the right of "Revize jízdenek" up the overhanging face past a BH to the ledge and via… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
8-/8
Revizor
Past the BH directly to the 1st K of the Zlatý Atlantik route Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Revizor
Up the corner on the valley edge past the 1st BH and the face past the 2nd and 3rd BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8/8+
Revizor
Up the valley edge past 2 K and 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8+/9-
Revizor
Via the route "Předvařená čočka" to the 3rd BH and directly up the face past the 4th BH… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6-
Revizor
Up the upper chimney from the chimney to a step to the NE edge, then along it past 2 K to… Rock Climbing

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