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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Modrá věž
From the ledge of the downhill route, traverse rightwards to the southwest edge, then… Rock Climbing
5
Modrá věž
From the ledge of the downhill route, leftwards along small cracks and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Žehlička
By a rugged corner in the middle of the downhill wall to a ledge and by a chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7
U-Boot
In the left part of the wall, via bh into the crack and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Nová bašta
Up the wall to the right of the Downhill route, past BH n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Nová bašta
Along the edge, up the right E pillar to the corner, cracks right and left and up the… Rock Climbing
5
Březová věž
Start completely on the left in the downhill wall. Hand crack to the corner of the… Rock Climbing
5+
Březová věž
Up the right uphill (NW) edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Březová věž
Up the center of the W wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Březová věž
Up the downhill chimney and overhanging crack to the corner, right along the wall and… Rock Climbing
3
Březová věž
From the uphill side, right around the tower along the ledge to the center of the S wall.… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Březová věž
Along the SE edge (4 bh) n. v. (Route re-bolted by the area manager, originally climbed… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Březová věž
In the E wall, through cracks and up the wall to K. Then left along the edge of the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Březová věž
Directly up the wall from the 1st K to the 2nd K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6-
Březová věž
Up the center of the S wall, using a hand traverse to the 1st K. Traverse left, then up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Březová věž
Along the NE edge, past 1 BH to the "Paprsek" (Ray) route ring. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6
Březová věž
From the uphill side, traverse left along the wall to the NE edge, then along it (K) n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Březová věž
Up the middle of the North wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Kóta 40
Completely in the right part of the wall, from the right around the edge (1st bolt) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Šedík
From the bolt of the "Master Ňafu" route, diagonally right up the wall to a small corner… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
3
Šedík
Up the West wall along a diagonal ledge diagonally right to the West edge and up it to… Rock Climbing Laid wall
5
Šedík
Up the West edge over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Šedík
Up the East wall diagonally left to a small balcony and up a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Laid wall
5+
Šedík
Up the middle of the valley (S) wall to a bolt, from it diagonally left up the wall, at… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
2+
Šedík
Up the plateau wall briefly to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
6-
Děravec
Up the overhanging fissure in the left part of the wall via K, n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Apač
Via the crack in the middle of the wall (BH) and a chimney to a ledge, from there, n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Zrcadlo
Wall to the right of the "Atomová mihule" (Atomic Lamprey) route in front of the hole … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Oliva
Right of the Radost z jeskyně (Joy from the Cave) route by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zrcadlo
From the left edge of the E wall into the hole to K, wall and crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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