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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Zrcadlo
From the left edge of the E wall into the hole to K, wall and crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4
Oliva
Center of the south wall by the right crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Věžka
In the passage on the W side by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Věžka
In the passage by the left crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Věžka
In the N wall from right to left to the edge and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Věžka
Edge from the tourist path over the shelf n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Věžka
Fine crack along the edge upwards n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Věžka
Overhanging downhill wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Věžka
On the right in the W wall to the contradiction and higher on the right to the shelf n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Věžka
From the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Věžka
Crack in the NE wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Košťanská věž
Through the middle of the South wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Obryně stáňa
In the right part of the Southwest wall to a small balcony and through a crack into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Prašivec
Overhanging crack in the North wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Východní Zbojnická věž
Right part of the East wall into the right hole (hourglass). Left to the second hole and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Dvojčata
Right in the south face into the hole, left and by the wall to the east summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojčata
From the left into the alcove. Right onto the edge and by the wall to the east summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Malý kužel
To the right of the North Route into the hole, by the overhanging wall to K and by the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Dvojčata
Through the center of the north face of the west summit over K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Dvojčata
From the north by the bulging corner n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojčata
In the left part of the north face of the east summit, left to the hole and then to K. By… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Dvojčata
On the north side of the east summit, by the wall to the left of the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojčata
By the arched NW edge to the west summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojčata
By the south arched edge over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojčata
From the south by an overhanging corner n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Dvojčata
By the hand crack (sokolík) from the west n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Radnice
By the right edge of the middle massif over K n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Dvojčata
Through the chimney between the two towers n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Radnice
Through the center of the right massif over the overhang to K and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Ptačí věže - severovýchodní
Up the middle of the south wall along the crack. Rock Climbing

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