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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Vosí věž
In the center of the West wall (by stacking), climb the wall to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce pětidomí
Through the center of the W wall, higher up to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce pětidomí
Up the S wall and the crack under the rappel directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Ježibaba
From the start of the Old route, go right to the platform, right into the gully and onto… Rock Climbing
3
Ježibaba
At the W edge, go directly up the gully to the platform and take the Arch route to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Ježibaba
On the left in the S wall, up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ježibaba
Through the center of the NE wall, over a ring and a clock to the 2nd ring. Directly up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Ježibaba
Up the edge over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ježibaba
In the S wall, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Ježibaba
On the left in the S wall, use a rib to the balcony. Build and go up the wall over the… Rock Climbing
2
Ježibaba
From the S chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Vosa
Take the right downhill edge to the ring and scale the smooth face to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Želva
In the left part of the downhill face, take the crack past 2 rings and the edge of … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Želva
On the South face to the block, then scale the face to the left, higher up directly to… Rock Climbing
5+
Želva
On the West face, scale the smooth face to the block, later to the pre-summit. Follow the… Rock Climbing
5+
Želva
On the right side of the South face, go to the flake and scale the face to the right to… Rock Climbing
3
Želva
On the left side of the South face, scale the face and crack to the pre-summit. Follow… Rock Climbing
3
Jizerská věž
From the uphill side, briefly chimneying, stemming, and scaling the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Želva
Scale the face to the right to the East edge, then follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Jedlový roh
Like "Valley Route" to the end of the crack and right to the balcony (slings). Through a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jedlový roh
From the start of "Southern Route," up the wall to the right to the southern edge and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Poustevna
From the top of "Poustevník" (Hermit), jump to the pre-peak and via "Stará cesta" (Old… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Poustevna
From the massif, descend to the balcony and jump into the hands at the top to the summit… Rock Climbing
4+
Poustevna
Up the south edge and over the overhanging crack (small slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Poustevna
From the north, up the corner and chimney to the pre-summit. Up the old route to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Poustevna
Up the uphill edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Poustevna
From the southwest, up the chimney to the pre-summit and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Čertovo kvítko
Through the center of the uphill face directly to the ring of the "Viva Libertate" route… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Ama Dablam
Up the north face to the chimney and to the right up the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ama Dablam
Up the smooth uphill face and hollow to the summit. Rock Climbing

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