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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Stolička
Through the crack along the left valley edge to the sloping ledge, then through the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Stolička
5
Stolička
Through the center of the upper wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Stolička
Along the edge, then along the wall near the edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Stolička
eastern edge over 2 K
7
Stolička
To the right of the Right upper c. through the hollow to the 1st K. Then straight over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5
Stolička
Through the crack in the right part of the valley wall around the hole, traverse to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Stolička
Through the center of the valley wall over 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Stolička
From the block near the W edge traverse to the left and through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Uprchlík
From the saddle by the Mushroom. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Ptačí věž
Up the right valley edge (3 bolts). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
2+
Zelený masiv
3
Zelená věž
5
Zelená věž
2
Zelená věž
6-
Zelená věž
From the left edge, traverse the wall to the 1st bolt. Left through the hole in the shelf…
4+
Zelená věž
3
Zelená věž
Corner in the North face n. v.
5
Zelená věž
5
Zelená věž
3
Zelená věž
Center of the plateau wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zelená věž
On the valley side onto a block and from the right n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zelená věž
West edge, later crack on the right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zelená věž
West edge n. v.
4-
Zelená věž
Right On the north side, diagonally right with a crack to the edge and then up it n. v.
4+
Zelená věž
Overhanging east edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Strážce hranic
2m right of "SW crack" to the terrace, briefly along the "S edge" crack into the hole and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strážce hranic
In the middle of the SW face, crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce hranic
Along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce hranic
In the middle of the south face, through the right chimney and on the right wall or… Rock Climbing

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