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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Obelisk
Rock Climbing
4+
Obelisk
Right of the old route several meters upwards, right to the crack and up to the platform… Rock Climbing
5
Obelisk
Directly to the top from the bolt. Rock Climbing
5+
Obelisk
In the right part of the valley face along the edge to the large platform in the valley… Rock Climbing
5+
Obelisk
Start on the NE edge, traverse right to the ledge to the diagonal crack and up to the… Rock Climbing
5
Obelisk
From the south to the large platform in the valley face. Up the NW edge to above the bolt… Rock Climbing
5+
Obelisk
From the valley along the NW edge to the ledge and left to the fixed ropes. Up the face… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Obelisk
In the left part of the south face, through the hole to the 1st bolt. Up the face through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Obelisk
Through the middle, later in the left part of the east face under the summit block.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6
Obelisk
In the right part of the south face, by chimney and face to the 1st bolt. Up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Věž nad strží
From the corner on the left, past the bolt into the hole and directly past the 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sloup
Up the wall past the bh to the ledge (clock) and over the overhang diagonally right into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4+
Hrad
From the start, traverse diagonally right into the crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hrad
From the boulder near the E edge to a small balcony and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hrad
Right of the Normal route. Up the wall to a ledge with a ring, and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Hrad
Up the center of the wall to a crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Hrad
In the downhill W face, left of the chimney, along the edge to the ring. Through a crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Hrad
From a standing start, climb into the NW face, traverse left to the edge and to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Hrad
Right of the E edge, upwards and through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Hrad
Up the center of the S face, past two rings, to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hrad
Via the Dramatický obrat route 2m up and traverse to the center of the pillar. Through a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Hrad
Up the wall between the Adršpašská direttisima route and a chimney to the ring, then into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Hrad
Through the chimney, then along the W edge and later through a crack in the downhill wall. Rock Climbing
6
Hrad
Up the wall along a fine crack, past the ring, into the Downhill route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Hrad
Right of Via Karolina, up the wall past K. and through the center of the pillar to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Hrad
In the right part of the downhill (NW) wall, into a widening crack to a platform.… Rock Climbing
5+
Hrad
Downhill route to a traverse. Gully to the 1st ring and to the balcony to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hrad
Downhill (NW) wall diagonally left to the start of a long crack, and up that to the… Rock Climbing
5
Hrad
On the right in the downhill wall, initially using handholds, then a wider crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Hrad
From the grassy area to the right of the S route, along the edge and a crack to the… Rock Climbing

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