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Climbing at Ostrov

466 routes
137 areas
1–10 grades

Ostrov in the Adršpach Rocks offers almost 470 routes on 147 towers – for example Čertův most, Ostrov bláznů, Faraon, Korál, Albatros and Ostrovní. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Ostrov has 466 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 137 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Čertův most 13 routes Ostrov bláznů 12 routes Faraon 9 routes Korál 9 routes Albatros 8 routes Ostrovní 8 routes Káča 8 routes Čertík 8 routes Tulák 8 routes Páv 7 routes Rukavice 7 routes Tajuplná 7 routes Pašerák 7 routes Saská placka 7 routes Rumburak 6 routes Peklo 6 routes Démon 6 routes Fregata 6 routes Věž u Lucia 6 routes Lupič 6 routes Pirát 6 routes Zefír 5 routes Kladivoun 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Zrzek 5 routes Kolozub 5 routes Carabus 5 routes Morgan 5 routes Trosečník 5 routes Mořská panna 5 routes Ježci 5 routes Cimbuří 4 routes Dingo 4 routes Hříbek 4 routes Klusáček 4 routes Trautenberk 4 routes Ostrovní hora 4 routes Slepičí král 4 routes Rohatá 4 routes Sen (Kokšův sen) 4 routes Lucius 4 routes Alkron 4 routes Julián 4 routes Chobot 4 routes Věž Waltera Bonattiho 4 routes Kriminálník 4 routes Mysliveček 4 routes Telefonista 3 routes Zub 3 routes Pusina 3 routes Kristián 3 routes Sklípkan s knírem 3 routes Útes 3 routes Skočná 3 routes Nebesa 3 routes Koloťuk 3 routes Piskoř 3 routes Blekota 3 routes Pálavská 3 routes Blátoš 3 routes Alka 3 routes Robinson 3 routes Černý opat 3 routes Atol Mururoa 3 routes Poskok 3 routes Ještěrka 3 routes Očistec 3 routes Džunka 3 routes Kačer 3 routes Šejdíř 3 routes Blíženci - Zlý 3 routes Ibiza 3 routes Ládík 3 routes Sekáček 3 routes Kazišuk 3 routes Dešťová víla 3 routes Trutnovská 3 routes Mefisto 3 routes Bukanýr 3 routes Ostrovní věžička 3 routes Čertův švagr 3 routes Rákosníček 3 routes Mecheché 3 routes Skunk 3 routes Babulík 3 routes Alf 3 routes Pekelník 2 routes Baseballová hůl 2 routes Vrak 2 routes Pekelná brána 2 routes Spasská věž 2 routes Kormorán 2 routes Hobo 2 routes Huňka 2 routes Lázně Běloves 2 routes Mořský koník 2 routes Matračka 2 routes Hora mechu 2 routes Mumie 2 routes Vodmašťovna 2 routes Angrešt 2 routes Všední 2 routes Pusinka 2 routes Hrouda 2 routes Anče 2 routes Mufin 2 routes Pablízek 2 routes Neptun 2 routes Celebes 2 routes Mates 2 routes Podhříbek 1 route Jumbo 1 route Moby Dick 1 route U tří pomocníků 1 route Padací most 1 route Anna van Deak 1 route Gazela 1 route Kuba II 1 route Svatební dar 1 route Mléčný zoubek 1 route Domovník 1 route Kuba 1 route Lingam 1 route Eňu 1 route Sicílie 1 route Silwer 1 route Huňáč 1 route Racek 1 route Poloostrov 1 route Čertova tchyně 1 route Společná 1 route Blíženci - Dobrý 1 route Finský domek 1 route Boxer 1 route Oscilant 1 route Čípek 1 route Posed 1 route
3
Ostrovní hora
Through the chimney in the NE wall to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Podhříbek
By the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Neptun
From the footbridge, a gully about four meters. By building, right a gully, a crack and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Společná
To the left of the valley (northern) edge through a narrow chimney to the plateau (circle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Ostrovní hora
From the highest point of the terrain on the plateau side of the tower, by a crack and a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kormorán
Between Cormorant and Gnome (from the tourist path from NE) via chimney to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kormorán
In the middle of the NE wall via crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Neptun
From the gorge under the NW face of the tower via small chimney/groove (sokolík) (1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Albatros
At the northern edge via crack to the flake and extensive aid climbing to the 1st ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Albatros
Via opposition (stemming) against the Sea Horse to the 1st ring. Via wall (2nd ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Albatros
Right of the southern corner (from the tourist path) via crack to the balcony. Along it… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Albatros
Right of the west edge via chimney to the balcony of the edge/lip. Via step-over and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Albatros
In the corner on the NW side of the tower, traverse via chimney to the opposite side.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Atol Mururoa
In the right part of the NE wall via a widening corner crack (ring) to the pillar. Via… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Albatros
Right in front of the Gothic Gate (from the southern corner) via chimney to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
7-/7
Albatros
Rock Climbing
5+
Atol Mururoa
Via crack in the northern edge to the 1st ring. Along the edge to the 2nd ring and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Mořský koník
Between Sea Horse and Albatross via chimney into opposition (stemming), aid climbing and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mořský koník
From the plateau gorge via opposition (stemming) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Slepičí král
From the inner space (direction from Rukavice) by a chimney and small wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Slepičí král
From the plateau side, by a stemming/bridging chimney to the pillar. Over another pillar… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
8/8+
Slepičí král
By the valley wall (4 rings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Blekota
From the plateau side, right to the ring and by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Slepičí král
By the wall (ring) and small cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Blekota
From the plateau side, by stemming/bridging to the block. By stepping over/traverse and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Rumburak
Through the middle of the SE wall to the ring. Traverse by the wall to the left and by a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Rumburak
By the corner crack and left by the wall to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Blekota
From the valley side, by the crack and left by the wall to the 1st ring. By the wall left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4
Čípek
By the NE crack to a small pillar and by the wall over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Sklípkan s knírem
By the right NE crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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