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Climbing at Ostrov

466 routes
137 areas
1–10 grades

Ostrov in the Adršpach Rocks offers almost 470 routes on 147 towers – for example Čertův most, Ostrov bláznů, Faraon, Korál, Albatros and Ostrovní. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Ostrov has 466 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 137 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Čertův most 13 routes Ostrov bláznů 12 routes Faraon 9 routes Korál 9 routes Albatros 8 routes Ostrovní 8 routes Káča 8 routes Čertík 8 routes Tulák 8 routes Páv 7 routes Rukavice 7 routes Tajuplná 7 routes Pašerák 7 routes Saská placka 7 routes Rumburak 6 routes Peklo 6 routes Démon 6 routes Fregata 6 routes Věž u Lucia 6 routes Lupič 6 routes Pirát 6 routes Zefír 5 routes Kladivoun 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Zrzek 5 routes Kolozub 5 routes Carabus 5 routes Morgan 5 routes Trosečník 5 routes Mořská panna 5 routes Ježci 5 routes Cimbuří 4 routes Dingo 4 routes Hříbek 4 routes Klusáček 4 routes Trautenberk 4 routes Ostrovní hora 4 routes Slepičí král 4 routes Rohatá 4 routes Sen (Kokšův sen) 4 routes Lucius 4 routes Alkron 4 routes Julián 4 routes Chobot 4 routes Věž Waltera Bonattiho 4 routes Kriminálník 4 routes Mysliveček 4 routes Telefonista 3 routes Zub 3 routes Pusina 3 routes Kristián 3 routes Sklípkan s knírem 3 routes Útes 3 routes Skočná 3 routes Nebesa 3 routes Koloťuk 3 routes Piskoř 3 routes Blekota 3 routes Pálavská 3 routes Blátoš 3 routes Alka 3 routes Robinson 3 routes Černý opat 3 routes Atol Mururoa 3 routes Poskok 3 routes Ještěrka 3 routes Očistec 3 routes Džunka 3 routes Kačer 3 routes Šejdíř 3 routes Blíženci - Zlý 3 routes Ibiza 3 routes Ládík 3 routes Sekáček 3 routes Kazišuk 3 routes Dešťová víla 3 routes Trutnovská 3 routes Mefisto 3 routes Bukanýr 3 routes Ostrovní věžička 3 routes Čertův švagr 3 routes Rákosníček 3 routes Mecheché 3 routes Skunk 3 routes Babulík 3 routes Alf 3 routes Pekelník 2 routes Baseballová hůl 2 routes Vrak 2 routes Pekelná brána 2 routes Spasská věž 2 routes Kormorán 2 routes Hobo 2 routes Huňka 2 routes Lázně Běloves 2 routes Mořský koník 2 routes Matračka 2 routes Hora mechu 2 routes Mumie 2 routes Vodmašťovna 2 routes Angrešt 2 routes Všední 2 routes Pusinka 2 routes Hrouda 2 routes Anče 2 routes Mufin 2 routes Pablízek 2 routes Neptun 2 routes Celebes 2 routes Mates 2 routes Podhříbek 1 route Jumbo 1 route Moby Dick 1 route U tří pomocníků 1 route Padací most 1 route Anna van Deak 1 route Gazela 1 route Kuba II 1 route Svatební dar 1 route Mléčný zoubek 1 route Domovník 1 route Kuba 1 route Lingam 1 route Eňu 1 route Sicílie 1 route Silwer 1 route Huňáč 1 route Racek 1 route Poloostrov 1 route Čertova tchyně 1 route Společná 1 route Blíženci - Dobrý 1 route Finský domek 1 route Boxer 1 route Oscilant 1 route Čípek 1 route Posed 1 route
5
Kladivoun
Via the right SW chimney to the pre-summit and the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hobo
Middle plateau (NW) crack to the balcony and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Hobo
On the plateau side (left of the west corner), via a crack to the pillar, then left up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Alf
Via the "Obíhačka" route to Hobo on the ledge. Jump across to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Alka
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Alf
From E, from the tourist footbridge over the stream into the chimney and through it into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Alf
From the hiking path, step over the stream and via an inner chimney to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Alka
From the plateau (SW) side, through a passage into the inter-tower gap. Descend to a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Celebes
In the southern edge, via a crack and chimney to the sub-summit plateau. By stemming and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Celebes
In the southern edge, via a crack and chimney to the sub-summit plateau. By stemming and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Alka
From Metuje, via a chimney and crack (ring) to the terrace. Via a chimney and crack (2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Pablízek
Through the valley crack and by a chimney to the pre-summit. By a wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Pablízek
From S, with strenuous climbing and then a crack to the pre-summit. Via the route … Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Matračka
To the right of the northern edge, by a crack and a gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
6
Anna van Deak
From the highest point of the terrain, via an overhanging crack to a small platform and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Ostrov bláznů
From the SW end of the passage, right over a vertical wall by opposition to the pillar.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lingam
From the fore-rock on the NW side, by building and a wall diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
3
Matračka
From the SW, by a short crack to the right to a small balcony and by a wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ostrov bláznů
To the left of the SW passage (by building) by a crack to the balcony and by Protlačená… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
4-
Ostrov bláznů
From the passage, by stemming to the SE pillar and by Kelímek's route to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ostrov bláznů
From the east, along the corner and by a wall to the right to the ring. To the right by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Ostrov bláznů
At the eastern corner, by a crack and a fissure to the ring. By a wall to the SE pillar,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Ostrov bláznů
The entry is to the left of the walk-through chimney. From the block, by an overhang and… Rock Climbing
4+
Ostrov bláznů
Between Ostrov bláznů (Island of Fools) and Ostrovní hora (Island Mountain), by stemming… Rock Climbing
3
Ostrov bláznů
From the SW through a passage into the inner space and by a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Ostrov bláznů
Through the left NW crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Ostrov bláznů
Through the right valley crack, by a chimney to the pre-summit, by an overhang and a wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Ostrov bláznů
Through the middle NW crack to the pillar and to the left by a wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Racek
From the NE gorge through a chimney and to the left by a crack to a small balcony in the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Ostrovní hora
In the right part of the valley (NW) wall, by a crack to the pillar. To the left by a… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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