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Climbing at Ostrov

466 routes
137 areas
1–10 grades

Ostrov in the Adršpach Rocks offers almost 470 routes on 147 towers – for example Čertův most, Ostrov bláznů, Faraon, Korál, Albatros and Ostrovní. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Ostrov has 466 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 137 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Čertův most 13 routes Ostrov bláznů 12 routes Faraon 9 routes Korál 9 routes Albatros 8 routes Ostrovní 8 routes Káča 8 routes Čertík 8 routes Tulák 8 routes Páv 7 routes Rukavice 7 routes Tajuplná 7 routes Pašerák 7 routes Saská placka 7 routes Rumburak 6 routes Peklo 6 routes Démon 6 routes Fregata 6 routes Věž u Lucia 6 routes Lupič 6 routes Pirát 6 routes Zefír 5 routes Kladivoun 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Zrzek 5 routes Kolozub 5 routes Carabus 5 routes Morgan 5 routes Trosečník 5 routes Mořská panna 5 routes Ježci 5 routes Cimbuří 4 routes Dingo 4 routes Hříbek 4 routes Klusáček 4 routes Trautenberk 4 routes Ostrovní hora 4 routes Slepičí král 4 routes Rohatá 4 routes Sen (Kokšův sen) 4 routes Lucius 4 routes Alkron 4 routes Julián 4 routes Chobot 4 routes Věž Waltera Bonattiho 4 routes Kriminálník 4 routes Mysliveček 4 routes Telefonista 3 routes Zub 3 routes Pusina 3 routes Kristián 3 routes Sklípkan s knírem 3 routes Útes 3 routes Skočná 3 routes Nebesa 3 routes Koloťuk 3 routes Piskoř 3 routes Blekota 3 routes Pálavská 3 routes Blátoš 3 routes Alka 3 routes Robinson 3 routes Černý opat 3 routes Atol Mururoa 3 routes Poskok 3 routes Ještěrka 3 routes Očistec 3 routes Džunka 3 routes Kačer 3 routes Šejdíř 3 routes Blíženci - Zlý 3 routes Ibiza 3 routes Ládík 3 routes Sekáček 3 routes Kazišuk 3 routes Dešťová víla 3 routes Trutnovská 3 routes Mefisto 3 routes Bukanýr 3 routes Ostrovní věžička 3 routes Čertův švagr 3 routes Rákosníček 3 routes Mecheché 3 routes Skunk 3 routes Babulík 3 routes Alf 3 routes Pekelník 2 routes Baseballová hůl 2 routes Vrak 2 routes Pekelná brána 2 routes Spasská věž 2 routes Kormorán 2 routes Hobo 2 routes Huňka 2 routes Lázně Běloves 2 routes Mořský koník 2 routes Matračka 2 routes Hora mechu 2 routes Mumie 2 routes Vodmašťovna 2 routes Angrešt 2 routes Všední 2 routes Pusinka 2 routes Hrouda 2 routes Anče 2 routes Mufin 2 routes Pablízek 2 routes Neptun 2 routes Celebes 2 routes Mates 2 routes Podhříbek 1 route Jumbo 1 route Moby Dick 1 route U tří pomocníků 1 route Padací most 1 route Anna van Deak 1 route Gazela 1 route Kuba II 1 route Svatební dar 1 route Mléčný zoubek 1 route Domovník 1 route Kuba 1 route Lingam 1 route Eňu 1 route Sicílie 1 route Silwer 1 route Huňáč 1 route Racek 1 route Poloostrov 1 route Čertova tchyně 1 route Společná 1 route Blíženci - Dobrý 1 route Finský domek 1 route Boxer 1 route Oscilant 1 route Čípek 1 route Posed 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7-/7
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From NE via a crack up to the widening, an overhanging crack-corner (ring) to the terrace… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From the summit of Útes (Cliff) by stepping over to an overhanging ledge. Via the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From SW from the gorge via a chimney, higher up a crack to the pillar. Along it and along… Rock Climbing
4
Pálavská
From the overgrown fore-rock on the NW side of the tower, via a crack into the inner… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Pálavská
From the saddle between Pálavská and Pusina, up the chimney to the pillar. Via the 'Above… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Blátoš
From the block on the right plateau edge, up the wall right (ring), via the falcon crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Blátoš
From SW via the overhanging corner and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Blátoš
From the plateau side, with substantial aid climbing and via the crack to the plateau.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Bazilišek
From Ostrovní Path, via the crack in the north corner of the tower to the ledge, via the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Bazilišek
In the left part of the SW wall, via the crack in the corner to the pillar and up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Bazilišek
From the plateau side (from SW) at the pillar via a slanted crack, chimney and wall over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bazilišek
From Pekelník, from the block, up the wall right to the east edge and along it (ring) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Bazilišek
From NW via the corner to the 1st ring. Traverse the wall left (2nd ring) to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Fregata
From SE via a system of chimneys and over pillars to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Fregata
Up the chimney of the 'Foot Fault' route to the collapsed pillar, then a wide crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
6-
Džunka
By building/aid climbing to the crack in the north edge, follow it to its end, step left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Džunka
From the valley side, from the inner chapel between the Junk and the Frigate, up the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Džunka
From the plateau side, up the steps, over the overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Huňáč
From NE (from Metuje) via the falcon crack to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the pillar and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Fregata
From the valley side, up the chimney between the Frigate and the Junk (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Fregata
In the left part of the valley (NW) wall, up the chimney to the cornice. Traverse the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Fregata
Up the chimney under the collapsed pillar (from Robinson) to the balcony, up the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Fregata
To the left of the start of the "Last Voyage" route from the inner chapel between the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kuba II
Up the chimney between the tower and the Black Abbot. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Mecheché
The access is below the NE wall behind the overgrown blocks. Up the yellow wall, above it… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mecheché
Up the plateau chimney (from the Tramp) to the ledge. By building (up/aid) along the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mecheché
To the right of the Solivé Route, up a crack to the 1st ring, (building (up/aid) from a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Ibiza
Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Ibiza
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Černý opat
From Daemon, up the chimney along the crack, higher up through a narrow side chimney to… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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