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Climbing at Ostrov

466 routes
137 areas
1–10 grades

Ostrov in the Adršpach Rocks offers almost 470 routes on 147 towers – for example Čertův most, Ostrov bláznů, Faraon, Korál, Albatros and Ostrovní. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Ostrov has 466 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 137 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Google Waze
Čertův most 13 routes Ostrov bláznů 12 routes Faraon 9 routes Korál 9 routes Albatros 8 routes Ostrovní 8 routes Káča 8 routes Čertík 8 routes Tulák 8 routes Páv 7 routes Rukavice 7 routes Tajuplná 7 routes Pašerák 7 routes Saská placka 7 routes Rumburak 6 routes Peklo 6 routes Démon 6 routes Fregata 6 routes Věž u Lucia 6 routes Lupič 6 routes Pirát 6 routes Zefír 5 routes Kladivoun 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Zrzek 5 routes Kolozub 5 routes Carabus 5 routes Morgan 5 routes Trosečník 5 routes Mořská panna 5 routes Ježci 5 routes Cimbuří 4 routes Dingo 4 routes Hříbek 4 routes Klusáček 4 routes Trautenberk 4 routes Ostrovní hora 4 routes Slepičí král 4 routes Rohatá 4 routes Sen (Kokšův sen) 4 routes Lucius 4 routes Alkron 4 routes Julián 4 routes Chobot 4 routes Věž Waltera Bonattiho 4 routes Kriminálník 4 routes Mysliveček 4 routes Telefonista 3 routes Zub 3 routes Pusina 3 routes Kristián 3 routes Sklípkan s knírem 3 routes Útes 3 routes Skočná 3 routes Nebesa 3 routes Koloťuk 3 routes Piskoř 3 routes Blekota 3 routes Pálavská 3 routes Blátoš 3 routes Alka 3 routes Robinson 3 routes Černý opat 3 routes Atol Mururoa 3 routes Poskok 3 routes Ještěrka 3 routes Očistec 3 routes Džunka 3 routes Kačer 3 routes Šejdíř 3 routes Blíženci - Zlý 3 routes Ibiza 3 routes Ládík 3 routes Sekáček 3 routes Kazišuk 3 routes Dešťová víla 3 routes Trutnovská 3 routes Mefisto 3 routes Bukanýr 3 routes Ostrovní věžička 3 routes Čertův švagr 3 routes Rákosníček 3 routes Mecheché 3 routes Skunk 3 routes Babulík 3 routes Alf 3 routes Pekelník 2 routes Baseballová hůl 2 routes Vrak 2 routes Pekelná brána 2 routes Spasská věž 2 routes Kormorán 2 routes Hobo 2 routes Huňka 2 routes Lázně Běloves 2 routes Mořský koník 2 routes Matračka 2 routes Hora mechu 2 routes Mumie 2 routes Vodmašťovna 2 routes Angrešt 2 routes Všední 2 routes Pusinka 2 routes Hrouda 2 routes Anče 2 routes Mufin 2 routes Pablízek 2 routes Neptun 2 routes Celebes 2 routes Mates 2 routes Podhříbek 1 route Jumbo 1 route Moby Dick 1 route U tří pomocníků 1 route Padací most 1 route Anna van Deak 1 route Gazela 1 route Kuba II 1 route Svatební dar 1 route Mléčný zoubek 1 route Domovník 1 route Kuba 1 route Lingam 1 route Eňu 1 route Sicílie 1 route Silwer 1 route Huňáč 1 route Racek 1 route Poloostrov 1 route Čertova tchyně 1 route Společná 1 route Blíženci - Dobrý 1 route Finský domek 1 route Boxer 1 route Oscilant 1 route Čípek 1 route Posed 1 route
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
6
Peklo
Via the West Chimney route to the pillar, right by the wall to the edge and up it (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Peklo
SW chimney to the pillar and left by another chimney to the valley pillar. Wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Lucius
From the SW by a small dihedral, higher up by a crack to a small balcony. Through the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Nebesa
Up the left valley crack below the overhang, left through a crawl into the chimney of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Nebesa
Up the right valley crack and right to the 1st ring. Up the wall to the small balcony … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Nebesa
Up the right upper crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Věž u Lucia
From the fore-peak at the north corner, to the right by an oblique crack to the ring. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4+
Lucius
From the gully between towers, via the NW chimney to the fore-summit. By overhang and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6
Lucius
Up the SE wall, by a small dihedral (ring) and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Věž u Lucia
From the NW via a chimney and crack to the 1st and 2nd rings. To the left up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Věž u Lucia
5m right of the start of the "Prostatic Electricity" route, by fissures and the wall … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Věž u Lucia
From the fore-peak in the gully between towers, via a crack in the SE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5+
Pekelná brána
Up the valley wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Věž u Lucia
Via the "Prostatic Electricity" route briefly upwards and to the right up the wall (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Věž u Lucia
From the overgrown balcony below the narrow SW wall, by a crack, higher up the wall (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Julián
From Ještěrčí Square, through the chimney between the pillar and the tower to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Pekelná brána
From the SE by a short chimney to the summit (n. v. - na vrchol). Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Julián
Start in the corner of the pillar in the southeast, in the area between Pašerák and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Julián
By opposition and crack, higher up by a small dihedral directly to the balcony with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Julián
To the left of the Hradecká route, through the chimney between Julián and the pillar,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zefír
Descent from Ještěrka to a small pillar and traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zefír
Via the 'Přes odštěp' (Across the Detachment) route to Ještěrka up to the detached block … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zefír
From the gorge from NW (from Pusina) via a corner crack, higher up via a chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Zefír
Via the 'Severozápadní spára' (Northwest Crack) route for about four meters and traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Zefír
From the plateau side via a corner, higher up the face to the left (2 Q) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pusina
From the plateau side via the SE face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pusina
Right of the 'Večerní polibek' (Evening Kiss) route via the face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pusina
From Pálavská via the valley chimney and crack to the balcony to the 1st ring. Along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Věž Waltera Bonattiho
From the plateau side from a small pillar via overhanging cracks (2 rings), left via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Pálavská
Between Pálavská and Walter Bonatti Tower, a ten-meter chimney, stepping into the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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