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Climbing at Ostrov

466 routes
137 areas
1–10 grades

Ostrov in the Adršpach Rocks offers almost 470 routes on 147 towers – for example Čertův most, Ostrov bláznů, Faraon, Korál, Albatros and Ostrovní. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Ostrov has 466 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 137 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Čertův most 13 routes Ostrov bláznů 12 routes Faraon 9 routes Korál 9 routes Albatros 8 routes Ostrovní 8 routes Káča 8 routes Čertík 8 routes Tulák 8 routes Páv 7 routes Rukavice 7 routes Tajuplná 7 routes Pašerák 7 routes Saská placka 7 routes Rumburak 6 routes Peklo 6 routes Démon 6 routes Fregata 6 routes Věž u Lucia 6 routes Lupič 6 routes Pirát 6 routes Zefír 5 routes Kladivoun 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Zrzek 5 routes Kolozub 5 routes Carabus 5 routes Morgan 5 routes Trosečník 5 routes Mořská panna 5 routes Ježci 5 routes Cimbuří 4 routes Dingo 4 routes Hříbek 4 routes Klusáček 4 routes Trautenberk 4 routes Ostrovní hora 4 routes Slepičí král 4 routes Rohatá 4 routes Sen (Kokšův sen) 4 routes Lucius 4 routes Alkron 4 routes Julián 4 routes Chobot 4 routes Věž Waltera Bonattiho 4 routes Kriminálník 4 routes Mysliveček 4 routes Telefonista 3 routes Zub 3 routes Pusina 3 routes Kristián 3 routes Sklípkan s knírem 3 routes Útes 3 routes Skočná 3 routes Nebesa 3 routes Koloťuk 3 routes Piskoř 3 routes Blekota 3 routes Pálavská 3 routes Blátoš 3 routes Alka 3 routes Robinson 3 routes Černý opat 3 routes Atol Mururoa 3 routes Poskok 3 routes Ještěrka 3 routes Očistec 3 routes Džunka 3 routes Kačer 3 routes Šejdíř 3 routes Blíženci - Zlý 3 routes Ibiza 3 routes Ládík 3 routes Sekáček 3 routes Kazišuk 3 routes Dešťová víla 3 routes Trutnovská 3 routes Mefisto 3 routes Bukanýr 3 routes Ostrovní věžička 3 routes Čertův švagr 3 routes Rákosníček 3 routes Mecheché 3 routes Skunk 3 routes Babulík 3 routes Alf 3 routes Pekelník 2 routes Baseballová hůl 2 routes Vrak 2 routes Pekelná brána 2 routes Spasská věž 2 routes Kormorán 2 routes Hobo 2 routes Huňka 2 routes Lázně Běloves 2 routes Mořský koník 2 routes Matračka 2 routes Hora mechu 2 routes Mumie 2 routes Vodmašťovna 2 routes Angrešt 2 routes Všední 2 routes Pusinka 2 routes Hrouda 2 routes Anče 2 routes Mufin 2 routes Pablízek 2 routes Neptun 2 routes Celebes 2 routes Mates 2 routes Podhříbek 1 route Jumbo 1 route Moby Dick 1 route U tří pomocníků 1 route Padací most 1 route Anna van Deak 1 route Gazela 1 route Kuba II 1 route Svatební dar 1 route Mléčný zoubek 1 route Domovník 1 route Kuba 1 route Lingam 1 route Eňu 1 route Sicílie 1 route Silwer 1 route Huňáč 1 route Racek 1 route Poloostrov 1 route Čertova tchyně 1 route Společná 1 route Blíženci - Dobrý 1 route Finský domek 1 route Boxer 1 route Oscilant 1 route Čípek 1 route Posed 1 route
6+/7-
Chobot
From the 1st ring of the "Experience Generator" route, left into the crack, through which… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Klusáček
From the highest point of the terrain, up the wall along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Chobot
From the passage by the Caretaker in the left part of the wall, by stemming (or… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Pusinka
Right of the Kocovina route, up the crack to the pre-summit. Via the Kocovina route to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Chobot
From the highest point of the terrain along the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Morgan
From the plateau side, via the chimney to the pillar. Up the wall, higher along the edge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Domovník
Up the plateau chimney to the pillar. Traverse to the 1st ring and left via the pinnacle … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Chobot
Up the valley crack to the ring. Build up from the seat and left along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Morgan
Above the 2nd ring, directly along the right edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Morgan
From the valley side, via a crack to the ramp to the 1st ring. Through the corner, right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Morgan
From the NE, straddling (2 rings), traverse right along the wall over the edge into the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Morgan
Via the route "Miracle of Nature" to the ledge above the 1st Ring. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Všední
From the valley side (from Boxer) via a crack to jammed blocks, then via a narrow chimney… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
2
Všední
The start is the same as the Inner Route to Boxer. Through the chimney almost to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ostrovní
On the NE side of the tower, descend right between the pillar and the block to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Ostrovní
In the left part of the NE wall of the pillar, via a crack and groove (ring) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ostrovní
From the block on the NE side of the tower, with a step and crack to the pillar. Via the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ostrovní
From the saddle between Ostrovní and Korál, descend three meters through the chimney.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ostrovní
From the saddle between Ostrovní and Korál, in the left part of the wall, follow the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Boxer
From the NE, from the highest point of the terrain, through the chimney to the pre-summit… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
4
Ostrovní
From the plateau (eastern) corner, crawl through the chimney between Ostrovní Tower and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ostrovní
On the plateau side, straddle the pillar, from the straddle build up and via the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Ostrovní
Straddling the Built Route all the way to the pillar. With a jump and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Blíženci - Zlý
Left of the northern corner by a shallow slanted crack to the 1st ring. By crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Kuba
By NE face and left along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Blíženci - Zlý
By opposition chimney between the twin towers to the lower summit. By crossing over and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
7-/7
Blíženci - Zlý
From S from the opposition by stepping into the wall, through it to the 1st and 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Šejdíř
At the eastern edge by crack to the small pillar, by wall left behind the edge, by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Šejdíř
From NW into a blind gorge. By chimney for about eight meters and by chimney in the NE… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
6+/7-
Šejdíř
From the exit of the gorge by crack several meters up and by pyrite wall (2 rings),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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