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Climbing at Ostrov

466 routes
137 areas
1–10 grades

Ostrov in the Adršpach Rocks offers almost 470 routes on 147 towers – for example Čertův most, Ostrov bláznů, Faraon, Korál, Albatros and Ostrovní. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, often in the shade; grades from 1 to 10.

Part of Adršpach Rocks, Ostrov has 466 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 10. Explore its 137 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Route in shadow, Spare Route.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, wood and organic matter from cracks - Use tourist routes and marked access paths for access - Do not disturb nesting birds, climb only on dry rocks in shoes with soft soles - Belay with fixed means and textile loops, do not rub the rock with rope, do not chop - Magnesium is prohibited, climb only in daylight - First ascents only by ČHS members, training max 3 people with instructor

Nature Conservation: Seasonal climbing ban from January 1st to April 30th. Nature Conservation Document: OP measure 2019, OP authority CHKO Broumovsko (Broumovsko Protected Landscape Area)

  • The ČHS sandstone rules apply: no chalk, no metal protection, dry rock only.
  • Only ČHS members may make first ascents.
  • Instruction only in groups of up to 3 people with an instructor.

Climbing is allowed only from 1 July to 31 December (in some areas near the main tourist trail from 1 May). Extra seasonal bird closures may apply; some gorges (e.g. Rokle nad Černým jezírkem, Janovická Vlčí rokle, Ztracená rokle) are closed.

  • The ČHS rules and those of the local regional climbing commissions apply.
  • Creating or chipping holds is banned.
  • Chalk is banned or only tolerated, depending on the area.
  • No climbing on wet rock – after rain or in winter this can mean hours or days.

Many crags lie in protected areas with seasonal closures. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.61697, 16.12254

Čertův most 13 routes Ostrov bláznů 12 routes Faraon 9 routes Korál 9 routes Albatros 8 routes Ostrovní 8 routes Káča 8 routes Čertík 8 routes Tulák 8 routes Páv 7 routes Rukavice 7 routes Tajuplná 7 routes Pašerák 7 routes Saská placka 7 routes Rumburak 6 routes Peklo 6 routes Démon 6 routes Fregata 6 routes Věž u Lucia 6 routes Lupič 6 routes Pirát 6 routes Zefír 5 routes Kladivoun 5 routes Bazilišek 5 routes Zrzek 5 routes Kolozub 5 routes Carabus 5 routes Morgan 5 routes Trosečník 5 routes Mořská panna 5 routes Ježci 5 routes Cimbuří 4 routes Dingo 4 routes Hříbek 4 routes Klusáček 4 routes Trautenberk 4 routes Ostrovní hora 4 routes Slepičí král 4 routes Rohatá 4 routes Sen (Kokšův sen) 4 routes Lucius 4 routes Alkron 4 routes Julián 4 routes Chobot 4 routes Věž Waltera Bonattiho 4 routes Kriminálník 4 routes Mysliveček 4 routes Telefonista 3 routes Zub 3 routes Pusina 3 routes Kristián 3 routes Sklípkan s knírem 3 routes Útes 3 routes Skočná 3 routes Nebesa 3 routes Koloťuk 3 routes Piskoř 3 routes Blekota 3 routes Pálavská 3 routes Blátoš 3 routes Alka 3 routes Robinson 3 routes Černý opat 3 routes Atol Mururoa 3 routes Poskok 3 routes Ještěrka 3 routes Očistec 3 routes Džunka 3 routes Kačer 3 routes Šejdíř 3 routes Blíženci - Zlý 3 routes Ibiza 3 routes Ládík 3 routes Sekáček 3 routes Kazišuk 3 routes Dešťová víla 3 routes Trutnovská 3 routes Mefisto 3 routes Bukanýr 3 routes Ostrovní věžička 3 routes Čertův švagr 3 routes Rákosníček 3 routes Mecheché 3 routes Skunk 3 routes Babulík 3 routes Alf 3 routes Pekelník 2 routes Baseballová hůl 2 routes Vrak 2 routes Pekelná brána 2 routes Spasská věž 2 routes Kormorán 2 routes Hobo 2 routes Huňka 2 routes Lázně Běloves 2 routes Mořský koník 2 routes Matračka 2 routes Hora mechu 2 routes Mumie 2 routes Vodmašťovna 2 routes Angrešt 2 routes Všední 2 routes Pusinka 2 routes Hrouda 2 routes Anče 2 routes Mufin 2 routes Pablízek 2 routes Neptun 2 routes Celebes 2 routes Mates 2 routes Podhříbek 1 route Jumbo 1 route Moby Dick 1 route U tří pomocníků 1 route Padací most 1 route Anna van Deak 1 route Gazela 1 route Kuba II 1 route Svatební dar 1 route Mléčný zoubek 1 route Domovník 1 route Kuba 1 route Lingam 1 route Eňu 1 route Sicílie 1 route Silwer 1 route Huňáč 1 route Racek 1 route Poloostrov 1 route Čertova tchyně 1 route Společná 1 route Blíženci - Dobrý 1 route Finský domek 1 route Boxer 1 route Oscilant 1 route Čípek 1 route Posed 1 route
6
Kolozub
About 5m right of the route „Nasral Franta na Trabanta“ by crack to the flake (1st ring),… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kolozub
From Šejdíř descend by chimney and step over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kolozub
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kolozub
Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kolozub
From the cave on the valley side of the tower by the right crack (ring), higher up by… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Carabus
By crack in the right valley (northern) edge to the 1st ring. Traverse left by wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Carabus
From the start of the Pětka route, traverse left on a ledge, then by a wide crack and… Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Carabus
From NW by chimney between Carab and Šejdíř to the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Carabus
In the left part of the NW face of Šejdíř by chimney to its NE pillar. By crossing over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Carabus
From NE by crack to the balcony and by wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4
Anče
By opposition from SW to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Mates
From the upper side, chimney to the pre-summit. By jumping and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Mates
From the blocks on the SW side of the tower, by jumping to the pre-summit and wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Čertův švagr
Between Devil's Brother-in-Law and Káča, chimney and wall near the east edge (2 rings) to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4
Anče
Chimney to the ring and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Mefisto
From the left upper edge, wall across 2 rings diagonally left into a wide crack. Up this… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Mefisto
In the right part of the valley (NE) wall, a winding wide crack to a pillar at a height… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
3
Čertův švagr
In the right part of the NE face (from Mephisto), chimney to the blocks. Left by stemming… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Čertův švagr
The start is in the NE face to the left of the Old Route. Wall, higher up by a fissure… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4
Mefisto
From the upper (SW) gorge, chimney to the plateau. Left by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Telefonista
Via the Golden Slippers route to the Wanderer on the balcony. Overhang and building up to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Telefonista
From the massif by jumping to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Telefonista
In the left part of the valley wall, chimney between Telefonist and Wanderer (ring) into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Kristián
In the left part of the SE face, a crack to the 1st ring. Traverse the wall right under… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kristián
From SW, chimney to the block and building up to the pillar. (Double) building up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Peklo
SW crack to the end and right in the ledge behind the southern edge to the ring. Traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Kristián
From NW, by a conical chimney and left by the wall to the balcony. Overhanging wall (ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Peklo
From the through chimney between Hell and Devil, a crack in the NE face (2 rings) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Peklo
From SE, small footholds (1st ring) and crack to the 2nd ring. Wall along the cracks to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Peklo
From the wedged boulder under the NW face, (by building up) crack to the ring and wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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