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Climbing at Ptačí stěny

684 routes
84 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Ptačí stěny above the village of Rájec are, with almost 700 routes on 84 towers and massifs, the largest sector of Rájec. They include Dubská věž, Rynek, Pilátova věž, Soví skála na ostrohu, Strážce hranic, Ústecká věž and Pašerák. Vertical walls dominate, often in the sun, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+. There is also a small bouldering sector at the start of Ptačí stěny.

Part of 2. Rájec, Ptačí stěny has 684 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 84 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route on sun.

Rules

Ostříží stěny and the Rájec valley are closed in spring for nesting birds. Check the current dates in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80620, 14.01701

Dubská věž 29 routes Rynek 21 routes Pilátova věž 21 routes Soví skála na ostrohu 18 routes Strážce hranic 17 routes Ústecká věž 15 routes Pašerák (SRN) 15 routes Masív u Pilátovy věže 14 routes Kóta 23/8 14 routes Strážce svahu 13 routes Listopadová věž 12 routes Rájecká věž 12 routes Moucha 12 routes Ptačí kužel 12 routes Ústecká stěna 12 routes Botanika 11 routes Třeboňská věž 10 routes Včelín 10 routes Hraniční hrot (SRN) 10 routes Dušičková věž 10 routes Rumcajs 10 routes Strážce pískoviště 10 routes Hlásný 10 routes Krkavec 10 routes Vánoční 10 routes Šmudla 9 routes Malíček 9 routes Hladomorna 9 routes Hláska 9 routes Pozdňátko 9 routes Střelecký trůn 9 routes Vozová hradba 9 routes Rájecký roh 9 routes Kulihrášek 8 routes Ropucha 8 routes Svatodušní masiv 8 routes Harpyje 8 routes Lupen 8 routes Ponorka 8 routes Zvonička 8 routes Nešika 8 routes Komínová věž 8 routes Strážce kazatelny 8 routes Hrot 7 routes Mašinka 7 routes Míra 7 routes Kobliha (krapfen) 7 routes Trpaslík 7 routes Rájecký bobek 6 routes Střelnice 6 routes Věž přátel skal 6 routes Hvězdná brána 6 routes Cipísek 6 routes Kovadlinka 6 routes Strážce mraveniště 6 routes Milan 6 routes Strážce hranic (SRN) 6 routes Vidlička 6 routes Slimáková věž 6 routes Masiv za Ústeckou věží 5 routes Rájecká hrouda 5 routes Bumbrlíček 5 routes Červánková věž 5 routes Karel 5 routes Zub 5 routes Kobylka 5 routes Masiv pod Harpyjí 5 routes Kazatelna 5 routes Kopyto 4 routes Tribuna 4 routes Masiv u Mouchy 4 routes Větruše 4 routes Kominíček 4 routes Bábovka 4 routes Malá kovadlina 4 routes Narozeninový hrot 3 routes Holubník 3 routes Špendlík 3 routes Kopí 3 routes Malý strážce svahu 3 routes Masiv zrzavých mravenců 2 routes Ka - ka - ka 1 route Převislý masiv 1 route Zelinář 1 route
5+
Botanika
In the middle of the W face under an overhanging crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Botanika
To the right in the N face by a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Botanika
By the left chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Botanika
To the left in the N face by a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Botanika
By the right chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Botanika
From the right by the NE edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Botanika
By a crack/disagreement between the massif and Včelín to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Botanika
Left of the "] crack" up the wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Botanika
South edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Botanika
Center of the South face by crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mašinka
In the right part of the North face, by overhanging arête to the horizontal ledge and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mašinka
Center of the wall and by crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Mašinka
Edge over a ring to the ring of the bypass route and up that to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mašinka
By chimney in the East face and by stemming up, traverse right to K, by hand crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Mašinka
By gash from SW and gully to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Mašinka
From South, in the plateau trench, up the wall or right via a crack to the ledge and to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Mašinka
In the left part of the North face, by crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kulihrášek
To the right in the N wall over 2 bolts and upwards via the crack. Rock Climbing
6-
Kulihrášek
Briefly upwards via the Broken Crack route, diagonally left to the bolt and directly… Rock Climbing
5+
Kulihrášek
Upwards via the crack in the upper N wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Kulihrášek
In the left part of the S wall several meters upwards to the edge. Traverse left onto the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kulihrášek
Up the S wall to the crack, through it into another crack and upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Kulihrášek
Into the narrow wall over the bolt onto the ledge and upwards via the Old Route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kulihrášek
Up the upper N wall to the platform and via the overhanging groove from the E upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Kulihrášek
In the right part of the S wall onto the balcony and upwards via the overhanging wall. Rock Climbing
5
Špendlík
From the left onto the narrow E wall to the bolt and directly upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Špendlík
To the left in the N wall to the bolt, left to the hourglass formation and upwards via… Rock Climbing
4-
Špendlík
In the N wall to the left via a receding crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Holubník
Via the wall along the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Holubník
In the S wall via a crack and an edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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