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Climbing at Ptačí stěny

684 routes
84 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Ptačí stěny above the village of Rájec are, with almost 700 routes on 84 towers and massifs, the largest sector of Rájec. They include Dubská věž, Rynek, Pilátova věž, Soví skála na ostrohu, Strážce hranic, Ústecká věž and Pašerák. Vertical walls dominate, often in the sun, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+. There is also a small bouldering sector at the start of Ptačí stěny.

Part of 2. Rájec, Ptačí stěny has 684 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 84 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route on sun.

Rules

Ostříží stěny and the Rájec valley are closed in spring for nesting birds. Check the current dates in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80620, 14.01701

Dubská věž 29 routes Rynek 21 routes Pilátova věž 21 routes Soví skála na ostrohu 18 routes Strážce hranic 17 routes Ústecká věž 15 routes Pašerák (SRN) 15 routes Masív u Pilátovy věže 14 routes Kóta 23/8 14 routes Strážce svahu 13 routes Listopadová věž 12 routes Rájecká věž 12 routes Moucha 12 routes Ptačí kužel 12 routes Ústecká stěna 12 routes Botanika 11 routes Třeboňská věž 10 routes Včelín 10 routes Hraniční hrot (SRN) 10 routes Dušičková věž 10 routes Rumcajs 10 routes Strážce pískoviště 10 routes Hlásný 10 routes Krkavec 10 routes Vánoční 10 routes Šmudla 9 routes Malíček 9 routes Hladomorna 9 routes Hláska 9 routes Pozdňátko 9 routes Střelecký trůn 9 routes Vozová hradba 9 routes Rájecký roh 9 routes Kulihrášek 8 routes Ropucha 8 routes Svatodušní masiv 8 routes Harpyje 8 routes Lupen 8 routes Ponorka 8 routes Zvonička 8 routes Nešika 8 routes Komínová věž 8 routes Strážce kazatelny 8 routes Hrot 7 routes Mašinka 7 routes Míra 7 routes Kobliha (krapfen) 7 routes Trpaslík 7 routes Rájecký bobek 6 routes Střelnice 6 routes Věž přátel skal 6 routes Hvězdná brána 6 routes Cipísek 6 routes Kovadlinka 6 routes Strážce mraveniště 6 routes Milan 6 routes Strážce hranic (SRN) 6 routes Vidlička 6 routes Slimáková věž 6 routes Masiv za Ústeckou věží 5 routes Rájecká hrouda 5 routes Bumbrlíček 5 routes Červánková věž 5 routes Karel 5 routes Zub 5 routes Kobylka 5 routes Masiv pod Harpyjí 5 routes Kazatelna 5 routes Kopyto 4 routes Tribuna 4 routes Masiv u Mouchy 4 routes Větruše 4 routes Kominíček 4 routes Bábovka 4 routes Malá kovadlina 4 routes Narozeninový hrot 3 routes Holubník 3 routes Špendlík 3 routes Kopí 3 routes Malý strážce svahu 3 routes Masiv zrzavých mravenců 2 routes Ka - ka - ka 1 route Převislý masiv 1 route Zelinář 1 route
4-
Dušičková věž
Through the middle of the E wall into a short chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Střelecký trůn
Through the crack in the right part of the wall into the hole. From its right edge, up… Rock Climbing
2
Střelecký trůn
From the plateau side easily to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Střelecký trůn
From the gully to the right to the large hourglass. Through a short crack to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Střelecký trůn
Right of the valley edge of the E wall to the ledge and left into the "Path from the… Rock Climbing
4+
Střelecký trůn
Through the middle of the valley wall over K to the top. Rock Climbing
?
Střelecký trůn
Rock Climbing
5+
Střelecký trůn
Through the overhanging crack to its end. Along the edge to the hourglass and to K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Střelnice
Through a wide crack in the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Střelnice
Through the middle of the E wall to the ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Střelnice
Along the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Střelnice
From the block to the SE edge and up to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí kužel
In the NE wall from the block, simple climbing into the corner and via the Tunnel route… Rock Climbing
6-
Střelnice
Left of the valley wall into the hole to the hourglass and over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Střelnice
Right of the "Valley crack" into the hole to the hourglass and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Ptačí kužel
In the W wall, up a crack into a hole and over a K to the top. Rock Climbing
9
Ptačí kužel
On the way, a border point into a hole (secured), and then directly up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4+
Ptačí kužel
Up the SW edge to the pre-summit rock and further along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ptačí kužel
Up the NE edge over a K directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Ptačí kužel
Up a crack in the middle of the S wall over holes and an overhang, higher up left to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Ptačí kužel
Up an overhanging crack in the plateau wall over a K into a hole, then left into a crack… Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí kužel
Up the NW edge, higher up right into the W wall and up into a crack. Then up this crack… Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí kužel
Up the SE edge (to the left of the chimney) over hourglasses into an overhanging crack,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ptačí kužel
From the start of the Valley Route directly up the wall over an overhang to a ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Ptačí kužel
From two-thirds of the chimney, traverse right into the SE wall below the overhang. To… Rock Climbing
4-
Kóta 23/8
Up a chimney and crack to the right in the plateau's N wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kóta 23/8
Up the NW edge along the rib to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kóta 23/8
Up a crack at the SW edge for a short distance, then traverse right and up another crack… Rock Climbing
5+
Kóta 23/8
Up the middle of the valley wall via 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kóta 23/8
Up a crack along the edge to its end and over an overhang to the top. Rock Climbing

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