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Climbing at Ptačí stěny

684 routes
84 areas
2–9/9+ grades

Ptačí stěny above the village of Rájec are, with almost 700 routes on 84 towers and massifs, the largest sector of Rájec. They include Dubská věž, Rynek, Pilátova věž, Soví skála na ostrohu, Strážce hranic, Ústecká věž and Pašerák. Vertical walls dominate, often in the sun, with rings and textile protection; grades from 2 to 9/9+. There is also a small bouldering sector at the start of Ptačí stěny.

Part of 2. Rájec, Ptačí stěny has 684 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9/9+. Explore its 84 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route on sun.

Rules

Ostříží stěny and the Rájec valley are closed in spring for nesting birds. Check the current dates in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.80620, 14.01701

Dubská věž 29 routes Rynek 21 routes Pilátova věž 21 routes Soví skála na ostrohu 18 routes Strážce hranic 17 routes Ústecká věž 15 routes Pašerák (SRN) 15 routes Masív u Pilátovy věže 14 routes Kóta 23/8 14 routes Strážce svahu 13 routes Listopadová věž 12 routes Rájecká věž 12 routes Moucha 12 routes Ptačí kužel 12 routes Ústecká stěna 12 routes Botanika 11 routes Třeboňská věž 10 routes Včelín 10 routes Hraniční hrot (SRN) 10 routes Dušičková věž 10 routes Rumcajs 10 routes Strážce pískoviště 10 routes Hlásný 10 routes Krkavec 10 routes Vánoční 10 routes Šmudla 9 routes Malíček 9 routes Hladomorna 9 routes Hláska 9 routes Pozdňátko 9 routes Střelecký trůn 9 routes Vozová hradba 9 routes Rájecký roh 9 routes Kulihrášek 8 routes Ropucha 8 routes Svatodušní masiv 8 routes Harpyje 8 routes Lupen 8 routes Ponorka 8 routes Zvonička 8 routes Nešika 8 routes Komínová věž 8 routes Strážce kazatelny 8 routes Hrot 7 routes Mašinka 7 routes Míra 7 routes Kobliha (krapfen) 7 routes Trpaslík 7 routes Rájecký bobek 6 routes Střelnice 6 routes Věž přátel skal 6 routes Hvězdná brána 6 routes Cipísek 6 routes Kovadlinka 6 routes Strážce mraveniště 6 routes Milan 6 routes Strážce hranic (SRN) 6 routes Vidlička 6 routes Slimáková věž 6 routes Masiv za Ústeckou věží 5 routes Rájecká hrouda 5 routes Bumbrlíček 5 routes Červánková věž 5 routes Karel 5 routes Zub 5 routes Kobylka 5 routes Masiv pod Harpyjí 5 routes Kazatelna 5 routes Kopyto 4 routes Tribuna 4 routes Masiv u Mouchy 4 routes Větruše 4 routes Kominíček 4 routes Bábovka 4 routes Malá kovadlina 4 routes Narozeninový hrot 3 routes Holubník 3 routes Špendlík 3 routes Kopí 3 routes Malý strážce svahu 3 routes Masiv zrzavých mravenců 2 routes Ka - ka - ka 1 route Převislý masiv 1 route Zelinář 1 route
6+/7-
Hláska
Via the SW edge (K - bolt/piton) to the ledge, right to the 2nd K (bolt/piton) and via… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hláska
Via a crack to the right of the SW edge to the 1st K (bolt/piton) and up the wall over… Rock Climbing
6
Hláska
Up the middle of the South wall to the hole and left to K (bolt/piton). Diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Hláska
From the large hourglass of the 'West Route' directly over 2 BH (belay bolts/pitons) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hláska
Directly up the V-edge into the second crack and via that to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Hláska
Up 4m via the V-edge and traverse left into a crack, briefly to its end, then traverse… Rock Climbing
6-
Tribuna
Left in the North face via a crack to K. Overhanging wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Tribuna
From the left edge via the overhanging wall to the right to K. Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Tribuna
Center of the wall via an interrupted crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Tribuna
Right in the wall via the chimney to the ledge, over the steps to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vidlička
North chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Vidlička
From the start of the Darmožrout (Freeloader) route, left into the hole and left onto the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Vidlička
From the massif, overfall and short wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Vidlička
In the left part of the South face, by wall and by depression to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Vidlička
Center of the West face over hourglass, directly by edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vidlička
By chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up like the Overfall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Malíček
Right of the Plateau Path up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Malíček
From the massif, a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Malíček
Crack in the South edge to the Old Path and up that to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Malíček
Center of the valley wall to the right under the overhang (loop). Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Malíček
Left of "Path from the Ravine" over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Malíček
West edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Malíček
Left of the West edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Malíček
In the valley wall, up to the gash, traverse right and South edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Šmudla
Through the middle of the S wall over an overhang into a recess, via which to the bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Malíček
Center of the plateau path to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Šmudla
Center of the South face, overhanging and crack to K, right to K "Karlovy cesty" (Charles… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4+
Šmudla
Descend 2m from the balcony of the Old Route to Kulihrášek, via the overfall and the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Šmudla
Start in the E wall, via an overhanging wall to a horizontal ledge and traverse about 3m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Šmudla
Between Šmudla and Kulihrášek via the broken crack to the hourglass formation, step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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