Overview
Grade: 6+
Total time: 6 hrs
Climbing time: 3 hrs
Approach time: 3 hrs
Exit time: 1 hour
Show topo 
Length: 170m
Rope Length: 60m
Quickdraws: 10
Climbing "Viaggio a Oxford - Kolinkofel" (grade 6+) on Mangart in the Julian Alps is an iconic and highly rewarding alpine rock climbing experience. This challenging route, often simply referred to as 'Viaggio a Oxford', tackles the impressive limestone walls of Mangart, one of the most prominent peaks in the Julian Alps, straddling the Italian-Slovenian border.
The approach typically involves driving up the scenic Mangart Road (highest paved road in Slovenia) to the Mangart Pass, then a hike to the base of the majestic north face. Due to its length and the nature of alpine climbing, many parties opt for a bivouac or an early start from a nearby hut.
The climb itself consists of multiple pitches of sustained 6+ difficulty, demanding excellent rock climbing technique, endurance, and good route-finding skills. The limestone rock is generally solid, but as with all alpine routes, vigilance for loose sections is crucial. Exposure is a constant companion on this committing ascent, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding peaks and valleys.
Protection is mixed; while some sections might have bolts, a full traditional rack is essential for safe progression between belays. The ascent is a true test of alpine climbing ability, combining technical difficulty with the demands of a high-mountain environment.
Upon reaching the summit of Mangart, climbers are rewarded with an incredible sense of achievement and a vast panorama. The descent usually involves a combination of scrambling, downclimbing, and possibly rappels, often leading back towards the Mangart Road or the various hiking trails. "Viaggio a Oxford" is a memorable adventure, reserved for experienced climbers seeking a serious challenge in a magnificent alpine setting.