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Rumpelstilzchen - Trogkofel Südwand

Austria | Carinthia | Carnic main ridge | Trogkofel

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Overview

Grade: 6+

Total time: 5 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 130m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 13

The Trogkofel Südwand, a towering limestone fortress, has always commanded respect. Among its many lines, 'Rumpelstilzchen' stands out – not just for its playful name, but for its serious challenge. Graded 6+, this route on the south face is a classic that demands both finesse and power. From the first pitches, the exposure becomes palpable, reminding you that you're truly committing to a grand adventure. The climbing is varied and engaging: steep, athletic sections give way to delicate slabs, while airy traverses connect impressive crack systems. Every move feels deliberate, a dance with the rock where precise footwork and confident handholds are paramount. Reaching the summit after conquering 'Rumpelstilzchen' is more than just ticking off a route; it's an immersive experience in the raw beauty and verticality of the Alps. The panoramic views from the top, stretching across the Carnic Alps, are a fitting reward for the sustained effort and exhilarating ascent. It's a climb that leaves you feeling accomplished, humbled by the mountain, and eager for the next challenge.
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