Overview
Grade: 6+
Total time: 3 hrs
Climbing time: 2 hrs
Approach time: 45 mins
Exit time: 40 mins
Climbing the Lomasti-Piussi route on Winkelturm (Torre Winkel) is an iconic and demanding alpine rock climbing experience. Graded 6+ (UIAA), this multi-pitch masterpiece ascends the imposing limestone face of Winkelturm, located in the majestic Julian Alps in northeastern Italy.
Established in the 1960s by the legendary climbers Attilio Lomasti and Armando Piussi, the route quickly gained a reputation as a serious testpiece. It features sustained, exposed climbing over excellent rock, with a mix of slabs, cracks, and chimneys that demand a full range of traditional climbing skills. Each pitch offers intricate movements and exhilarating exposure, requiring precise footwork, strong technique, and a good eye for natural protection. The verticality and commitment are ever-present, culminating in breathtaking views from the summit.
The Lomasti-Piussi is more than just a climb; it's a journey through a significant piece of alpine history, offering a profound sense of achievement for those who successfully navigate its challenges. It remains a classic destination for experienced climbers seeking adventure and a true test of their abilities in a stunning mountain environment.