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Hänsel - Trogkofel Südwand

Austria | Carinthia | Carnic main ridge | Trogkofel

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Overview

Grade: 6/6+

Total time: 5 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 125m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 13

Climbing 'Hänsel' on the Trogkofel South Face (Südwand) is a truly classic alpine experience that leaves a lasting impression. Graded at a sustained 6/6+, this route demands both technical precision and significant endurance. The Trogkofel's characteristic solid limestone provides excellent friction, guiding climbers through a variety of pitches: from delicate slab climbing requiring precise footwork, to engaging cracks and challenging corners.

The route is notably long and exposed, making efficient rope management and a good head for heights crucial. As you ascend, the views progressively open up, offering breathtaking panoramas across the Carnic Alps and surrounding peaks, making every pitch a memorable experience. Protection on 'Hänsel' is often mixed; while some sections might feature bolts, the route largely retains its traditional alpine character, frequently requiring solid placements of traditional gear (nuts, cams), which adds to the adventure.

Reaching the summit after conquering 'Hänsel' is an immensely rewarding feeling, a testament to the challenge overcome. The descent, often involving intricate scrambling and traversing, is an integral part of the adventure, rounding off a demanding yet deeply satisfying day in the mountains. This climb is a proper test piece, a deep dive into the heart of a magnificent rock face that truly epitomizes alpine climbing.

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