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Overview

Grade: 3

Total time: 6 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 450m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 5

Ascending the Trogkofel Nordostkante (Northeast Ridge) on the Trogkofel mountain is a quintessential alpine experience for climbers seeking a moderate yet rewarding challenge. Graded III on the UIAA scale, this classic route offers sustained exposure and breathtaking views, making it a highly sought-after objective in the Carnic Alps.

The approach often begins with a scenic hike, perhaps from a nearby hut like the Gartnerkofel Hut, leading to the base of the imposing northeast face. The climb itself winds its way up the prominent ridge, featuring solid limestone, a mix of slab climbing, crack systems, and airy traverses. While not technically extreme, the Grade III rating signifies sections requiring confident movement, good rope work, and a steady head for heights. The rock is generally excellent, providing reliable holds throughout.

Reaching the summit of Trogkofel rewards climbers with panoramic vistas across the surrounding peaks of the Carnic Alps and beyond. The descent typically follows a different, often marked, path or even a via ferrata route from the summit, leading back to the valley or the starting hut, completing a memorable and exhilarating day in the mountains.
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