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Gretel - Trogkofel Südwand

Austria | Carinthia | Carnic main ridge | Trogkofel

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Overview

Grade: 6+

Total time: 5 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 1 hour

Show topo Route topo

Length: 110m

Rope Length: 60m

Quickdraws: 13

Climbing 'Gretel' on the Trogkofel South Face (Trogkofel Südwand) is a truly memorable alpine experience. Located in the breathtaking Carnic Alps, this multi-pitch route, graded 6+ (UIAA), offers a significant challenge for experienced climbers. The South Face ensures plenty of sun exposure, often making it an ideal climb for spring or autumn days. 'Gretel' itself is renowned for its excellent, mostly solid limestone, although alpine prudence is always advised. The pitches are diverse, ranging from steep walls to more technical slabs, demanding a full repertoire of climbing skills and a good head for heights. Exposure increases as you ascend, providing increasingly dramatic views over the surrounding peaks and valleys. Protection is typically mixed, with a combination of fixed anchors (bolts) and opportunities for traditional gear placements, requiring climbers to be proficient in both. Route finding, while generally logical, requires attention, adding to the alpine character. Reaching the summit after conquering 'Gretel' is immensely rewarding. It’s not just about the physical challenge but also about the intense focus, the teamwork, and the profound connection with the raw beauty of the mountains. A classic route that delivers an unforgettable adventure.
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